10/30/2010
When we last left our hero, he was in the backcountry of Glacier National Park. After realizing venturing further into grizzly country would be a bad idea, I decided to pack up camp and head back towards civilization. Taking the long route North around the head of Lake McDonald, I passed the trailhead noted on my itinerary which went to Trout and Arrow lakes. It was a sigh of relief to when the gravel road I'd been walking on for a little over a mile turned into asphalt. Crossing McDonald Creek, which feeds Lake McDonald, more vehicle traffic started to appear. Going to the Sun Road was not far ahead. At which point, I turned South and hiked the East side of the lake. It was at about that point my feet began to swell with blisters. The farther I went, the more pain I endured. It would not have been an issue had more campgrounds been open, but the nearest one was back in Apgar... at the foot of the lake. I passed onlookers and tourists, as well as a film crew from a company in Chicago called Super Stock Footage. After my fourth water and snack break, my feet were now raw. The pain was excruciating! It was by the grace of God himself that a passer-by asked if I could use a ride. Her name was Anne, and if I didn't know any better, I could swear I saw a halo over her head and wings in the shape of trekker's poles. The care ride the last Two and a half miles into Apgar was a welcome escape. She dropped me off at the permit office, and drove away into the clouds. I went in to find a woman at the counter. After waking up at Eight in the morning, hiking at Eight Forty Five, it was now Four Fifteen in the afternoon. I was the only visitor she's had all day! She wasn't suprised to find out I was there to cancel part of my itinerary. Explaining to her how gross I'd felt, she fervently tried to find somewhere I could do some laundry. It was to no joy. Everything, including the gas station, was closed for the season. We decided I'd camp at the nearby picnic area and wait until the morning. At this point I'd already bumped my Amtrak reservation up to Saturday. After setting up camp and having a meal, it began to rain. Now normally rain it's a big deal... but when it's Thirty Five degrees outside, it's huge! I called Amtrak again and managed to get a train out the next morning. Departure was Eight Sixteen. Given that information, my only reasonable choice was to pack up again and tough it out another Three point Three miles to the station. At this point, the time was already Six Fifty in the evening and getting dark fast thanks to the vast shadows cast by the surrounding mountains. Drudging through the rain, it was night time halfway through the hike. The West Entrance marked my halfway point. Wildlife began to stir all around me, as I saw a huge whitetail run into the brush just ahead. Crossing the Flathead River into West Glacier, I made it to the station... which is really just a gift shop. No Amtrak personnel to speak of. Setting up camp, I patiently slept until my morning ride home. After waking up, I checked my train's status... Four hours delayed. Knowing I wasn't in any hurry at that point, I took my time packing up before the shopkeep arrived at Eight Fifteen. He was a jolly man, well educated and versed in the ways of the mountain. Knowing I'd be there for a while, he offered for me to keep warm and dry inside the shop. This gave me ample time to write out some postcards. I ventured back into the weather a hanful of times to the post office around the corner. The only other establishment open, aside from the gift shop. All the while, the sign across the street at the gas station reads "Huckleberry Pie". The train finally arrives. Six hours late, total. I depart at Two Fifteen in the afternoon. The food onboard was a welcome break from trail bars and freeze dried foods. Also, sleeping across two seats trumps a bed of cold rocks anyday! I don't mind the delay. Though it's caused me to miss my train from Chicago to DC, the kind folks at Amtrak are going to put me up in a hotel for the evening. Hooray for Chicago sights and food! See ya soon!
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14:58
Backpacking via Amtrak to Glacier National Park Pt4by 007dolan127 views
Train came in finally and your way home. I have found them to run late most of the time. It's a great comfort to get going. I know you complained about your feet, how bad were they. I carry padded mole skin with me and so far no problems. We hike about 12 miles a day, but no more than 15 miles. I don't know if that's right or wrong. Thank you for sharing
DennyRec 4 months ago