Sport 101: Lowering off of chains

This is another in the sport series. There are times when you cannot feed a byte through the end of the anchor. For more information on dealing with anchors watch Parks Canada's Public Safety warden Lisa Paulson give an excellent description of how to deal with rap rings and clip off with quick draws. This video does not cover clipping off with quick draws but with a sewn sling through the belay loop in the harness. http:mountainguide.com if you care to drop a buck
Thanks
The Mike

Category:

Education

Tags:

• rap
• rappel
• safety
• sport
• climbing
• banff
• Canada
• Rockies
• Lessons
• mountaineering

[vkelsov]

Mike... How many locking biners to you usually carry on your rack? I understand it would probably change depending on what kind of climb you expect.

[mikebarter387]

@vkelsov actually it doesn't change to much. When guiding I carry a couple extra that being 4. I usually only carry 2 when climbing with friends. Ok maybe 3, but one to clip in and a big ass pear biner for a munter hitch. I can always use a couple biners opposing if I forget a locker. Once in awhile I just go crazy and use a nonlocker where the rules say I should. I am such a rebel!

[JabbawockCGN]

Hey Mike, I'm a real fan of your series, but for this video I might have a suggestion. You fix the rope with a munter to prevent it from falling down to the anker. That 's ok, but I always make an overhand knot, take a carabiner and fix it direct to my belay sling on my harness. The reason for this is that if I have leaded that route and the anker (bolt) brakes out of the wall I'll only fall down to my next quickdraw/friend whatever. For sure it is necessary that my belayer is still belaying :)

[mikebarter387]

@JabbawockCGN It was a clove hitch that I used. The only point to the knot/hitch is to keep from dropping the rope. Any of the others would work.

[lizhenrocks]

Thanks! Did you install those bolts and chains just to make this video?

[mikebarter387]

@AlSwearengen15 I think that this is a valid point and I reshot the lowering off of chains to cover this point. It is best to have at least two parachutes. I reposted your comment because it is a valid point that people should take note of.

[mikebarter387]

@AlSwearengen15 This video is very helpful but I do want to second what a few people have said, though I think you addressed it, that the point in which you are only connected to the one sling lacks redundancy. I think people do this a lot, though, especially with daisy chains. It's probably fine 99% of the time. However, having two slings, or some other source of redundancy, is basically bombproof (as long as the bolts are sound, that is).

[AlSwearengen15]

@paintbaler94 It might be worth also saying, because I dont know what previous knowledge to bring to this or not and some people actually have made this mistake, is that you want dynamic rope not a static rope unless you dont really value the ability to walk. A dry rope too is not really a must but I dont think I would buy anything but

[vkelsov]

@JabbawockCGN That was a clove hitch not a munter, and I'm not sure I would trust an overhand knot to hold me on a fall... why not just figure 8?