PLEASE READ THESE NOTES- - -
Thanks to Mike who was able to locate the original files on an old HD before nuking it.
Forgive the misnomers - old habits die hard and when you're used to calling a part one thing and now you're supposed to call it something else you can end up stuttering - LOL
The following is cut and pasted from a post by one of the most knowledgeable people on earth when it comes to small arms. It's what to do when you bring your new Sig Sauer 556 (or any weapon) home for the first time. The man's online handle is ullie, and he is very well respected on Sig forums. Here's his advise...
...this is what i would recommend when your new 556 arrives...
...the first thing that i would do is to carefully read the owners manual...getting to know all the major components...some study of the parts diagram would be helpful...i'm sure...
...field strip the entire rifle and throughly clean the entire weapon using Breakfree CLP...removing all grease and perserative oils...then liberally coat the entire weapon with Breakfree CLP and let sit overnight or longer...the Breakfree will migrate overnight...and will form a protective film on the metal surfaces...providing a good degree of corrosion protection...even after the solvent evaportes and the metal appears dry...it will still be protecting the metal and finish of your weapon...
...clean the barrel, chamber and gas tube using a nylon bristle brush of the approprate size...and dry by running clean patches through them...clean the barrel from the rear using a 1 piece coated cleaning rod and do not reverse direction midway...go all the way through and back out again...so that it doesn't bind...normally i only use a patch with CLP to clean...or a nylon brush if needed...i rarely use a bronze brush...only when the accuracy degrades due to fouling...
...lightly lubricate the weapon with CLP...one drop on the hammer and trigger pins...on each side of the hammer and trigger...a drop on the selector shaft...and a drop on all the contact surfaces of the fire control group...lubricate the bolt head, bolt shaft and the bolt/carrier camming area with several drops of CLP or LP...no grease...two drops on the extractor rim...and a drop on the firing pin spring...and several drops on the rails on which the carrier glides...and a drop on anything that pivots or moves...including the takedown pins...the charging handle catch spring and so on...
...do not lubricate the gas valve or piston head...you can place one drop of CLP on the stop pin compression spring to prevent corrosion...and a light film on the recoil spring only...no lubrication fowards of the recoil spring...any lubricant in this area is blown out after the first few rounds...and what remains is carbonized / hardened by the heat, high pressure gases and particulate matter of the combustion process that drives the weapon...and remains as fouling...reducing the efficiency of the system...
...after assembling your rifle...i would hand cycle the rifle about 300 times or so...just pull the charging handle back and forth to cycle the weapon...allowing the carrier to run it's full travel along the rails and also allowing the bolt to cam open / close and lock into battery with each cycle...you don't need to allow the bolt to slam fowards as when charging your rifle...this will burnish the rails in the reciever and flatten out any high spots that may be present from the manufacturing process and debur the bolt /carrier somewhat by removing any small pieces of metal left over from the machining process...this hand cycling helps to reduce any friction inducing surface roughness that may be present in a new weapon...and will also help break in the new recoil spring...reducing the innitial stiffness somewhat and burnishing the gas piston surfaces where it contacts it...
...lastly...i would take a wooden dowel or something similar and work the follower up and down on any new magazine...about 30 times or so...and give the spring "only" a very light coating of CLP as a corrosion inhibitor...
...clean and maintain your weapon properly...use good ammo and mags...and you will have many years of shooting enjoyment from your new 556...
...good luck all...ullie
When will you post the re-assembly video?
suddenlyill 1 year ago
@suddenlyill
Not sure if I will be able to make and post the re-assembly and cleaning videos as we do not own these rifles anymore. I will have to try to borrow one of my friends rifles to make those videos.
restoring 1 year ago
hey, thanks for the video.....im trying to find out if my uncles has swiss internals for him and originally i thought it did but now im not sure. The serial # is JT006xxx and i can see weld marks on the upper along with a metal buffer tube (in AR terms) and the gas block has proof marks on it BUT the bolt is black and not polished looking like yours. idk Anyway, i'm looking into buying 1 and i keep seeing people say they have a Sig 556 "ER".. Whats the ER at the end mean"??? early run? Thanks
dirtyboy3364 1 year ago
@dirtyboy3364
Hmm - the rifle in that video had swiss internals, the bolt carrier assembly is blued. It sounds like the rifle you are describing could very well be one of the early ones with swiss (or mostly swiss) internals and should be retained.
The 556 "ER" in my understanding, referred to an optics ready model in the early releases of the 556 here in the U.S. That is what I had.
I recommend you try sigarms556(dot)com - not as good as it used to be, but still a ton of info there.
restoring 1 year ago