Alert icon
We're changing our privacy policy. This stuff matters.  Learn more  Dismiss

barrel ceiling

Loading...

Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon
Upgrade to the latest Flash Player for improved playback performance. Upgrade now or more info.
32,707
Loading...
Alert icon
Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon

Uploaded by on Feb 6, 2006

rounding a ceiling under a dormer

**I used to have a beck song playing behind this, but someone in the beck organization claimed a copyright so I had to pull it out. Maybe someday I'll add music to it again, but until then *try* to enjoy

  • likes, 2 dislikes

Link to this comment:

Share to:

Uploader Comments (crsmal)

  • Instead of building in the air and nailing the 2x4's to follow the barrel, you could of built them on the ground by sandwiching 2x4 scrap blocks between two gussets following the bottom edge, creating a 1 1/2" opening at the top of the gusset.

    Then with the top of the gusset open, slip it over the rafter and nail.

    What it's saves on aggravation, time & using scrap 2x4's defiantly offsets the extra cost of plywood. You could also use larger ply scrap and piece together if needed.

  • @bruno2260 hmm, never did it that way. didn't think our way was that hard actually-versus trying to hoist a completed barrel up there and have it all plane out with the bottom of the ceiling.

    as we all know, there's many ways to put this stuff together

  • At 1:20 it clearly shows that your last sleep valley rafter's heel cut exceeds the sleeper 2x10 valley. It is critical that you understand that you could have used a 2x6 rafter because in reality that is all the strength you have in those rafters. The span and weight distribution factor is small at that point and it would look more apropriate so that the heel doesn't hang over as far. So next time out you should consider it.. Have fun on your next project.

  • I'll consider it, and the next time you're framing a layover and you get to that spot and you realize you don't have any 2x6, feel free to use a 2x10. It'll only be doing the work of a 2x6, but you can probably have the roof finished and sheathed in the time it would even take you to get to the lumberyard. Thanks for your help.

see all

All Comments (16)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Boy! I miss framing - Put me to work would ya!

  • our roof package was 2x10, we weren't about to downsize the rafters to avoid overhang, would you order new smaller lumber if you already had bigger stuff that would work?

    also, every crew if framed with sticks frames roofs at 16 oc because we like them to land over our studs which are 16 oc. granted in there are no studs to fall over in this application, but old habits die hard.

    barkin' up the wrong tree hombre

  • or maybe use 2x6 rafters that sit completely on the false valley, and not waste 2x10s on a 3 foot long rafter, in which just the tip of the end sits on the valley. Not to mention 2' centers is normal for roof rafters.

  • please dude, school me- how do you you handle the last rafters when you're doing a layover. and don't tell me you chop out the all the rafters and put in a true valley.

  • wowk, nice 2x10s on 16" centers LOL and then about 3" tall of the 2x10 sit on the valley! LOL, dude if you do instructional videos, know wht the fck you are doing first.

  • I like that your NOT LAZY

Loading...

Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more