Music by Brother Iz- "Hele onto Kauai"
Our son, Alex, who is Hapa Haole, just graduated kindergarten. Normally, we surf out of Santa Cruz, but we take a two week surf trip to Hawaii each summer.
For the past three years, Alex has been surfing tandem with his father on an 11-foot board. Or, occasionally, we'd push him into a small wave on his own, and let him ride to the beach on his belly. But, we've never truly let him surf "on his own."
We told him he had to become a truly strong swimmer before he was allowed to ride a board on his own.
Alex has been taking daily swim lessons after school with a terrific swim coach. (Two of his former students went on to become Olympians.) We have no Olympic aspirations for Alex, but we're glad the guy is a terrific swim coach.
If you look carefully in the video, you can see Alex is still wearing a life vest over his shortie suit.
Why?
Longboards are heavy, (up to 30+ pounds), and if it hits you in the skull the right way, it can knock you out. And, unconscious, all those swim lessons really aren't going to help much...
But, Alex is very confident in the water now. He is excellent physical shape, and a very strong paddler. All that swimming really developed his upper body so he can paddle a surf board with ease.
But, everything came together. Alex had a terrific time learning to surf in Hanalei Bay this year.
It was more crowded than last year. A summer camp for the local kids was going on at the time, so the water was just inundated with little ones learning to surf.
But, the crowded conditions were probably to Alex's benefit.
When he gets back home and starts surfing in Santa Cruz, he will also be facing very crowded surfing conditions, plus much colder water. And, the water will be murky green, with entangling kelp, not the crystal blue of Hawaii. So, there will be a couple of added degrees of difficulty once he starts surfing in Santa Cruz.
He says he's ready, though, and eager to try to Santa Cruz.
My husband is Pacific-Islander, having been born in the Philippines. He lived in the Philippines until he was 12, then moved to the United States with his family. He worked very hard, went to college, became an engineer, and he's had a long, successful career in high-tech.
But, the ocean is where he truly feels at home.
He's been surfing for over 20 years in Santa Cruz. We met while surfing, and got married in Hawaii. We currently live in California, not far from Santa Cruz.
My husband loves coming to Hawaii each year, because it reminds him so much of where he was born and raised.
You are going to love it! Be sure to try the food at the roadside stands! Not to be missed! The restaurant themselves are crowded and overpriced. But, the roadside stands are hidden treasures! So, everytime you see one, pull over and try them! You can get the most amazing shrimp, coconut, hamburgers, shaved ice, for just a few dollars. Look online, Yelp, etc., for a good to roadside stands in Kauai. It is the best way to find the best eats in Kauai without breaking your wallet!
surfercouple 5 months ago
5 stars!!! You rock Alex! From cousin Gabrielle, Zach and Uncle George
gjwolf22 3 years ago
@gjwolf22 Thanks Uncle George! Cousin Alex wants Cousin Zach to come to Kauai again next summer! He says a family vacation is MUCH more fun is ALL of his cousins are there... :) Come to Kauai, cousins... Come surfing with cousin Alex...
surfercouple 5 months ago