cleft graft close up

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Uploaded by on Apr 29, 2009

Just a close up view and comment to help with getting the cleft graft right. Shows the need for a tight fit between the scion wedge and the receiving cleft in the stock. You just have to practice to get this right.

This graft, which is normally done as a double graft, is helpful when you need to graft a thin scion on to a branch or stock which is several timnes larger in diameter. Here the scion is about 5mm and the branch being grtafted on to is about 25mm. You can;t do a saddle or whip and tongue graft with this disparity on the diameter.

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Uploader Comments (stephenhayesuk)

  • when you say you store the scion wood wet and cool do you mean don't let it dry out or do you have to keep it damp. btw thanks 4 that vid on pears. my little tree's about the same age and threatening to grow lots of fruit on puny branches. would it be ok let them get on a bit to c how successful they've polinated or would this be very counter preductive.thks

  • Hi ballhitch. I mean don't let it dry out. I store my scion wood in a polythene bag in the fridge, some people like to store it in a cool shady place wrapped in cloths which are kept moist. Someone has probably done scientific research to find the 'perfect' level of humidity and temperature, but I work to rules of thumb. Cut in late winter and store cool and moist.

    Re 'lots of fruit on puny branches' see my video on fruit thining, DO NOT let a young tree carry any fruits in the first 2 years

  • hi stephen great video!!, btw is it rule of thumb to prune fruit tree's of dead or dying branches, i have a couple of young trees one of wich is a peregrine peach , and i noticed a few dead looking branches (twigs more like) so i pruned them off as close as i could to the next branch then i sealed it with wax, hope i have done the right thing.

  • Hi taono.

    Yes, the first principle of pruning is to remove any wood which is dead, sick or crossing and rubbing. I have looked at this in the series of videos I put up about restoring a neglected orchard recently.

    I use wax to seal grafting cuts otherwise you have dead spaces which insects and stuff can creep into, but I stopped painting or waxing most pruning cuts years ago as it seems to make little or no difference.

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  • didn't seem like a very good fit

  • i like your videos and are very useful.I have my own orchard and grafted almost all my trees.Best results i have with apples,cherries,pears but problem is with plum,peach and apricot which i can not graft.I FAIL every time and it drives me crazy.

    if you know reason please help.May be time is not right.

  • Excellent vidoes. I've used them as reference for my pear grafting. One question. I see on this cleft graft you only put wax on the bottom of the lateral bark crack, and the top, but stayed away from the sides where the scion toches the stock. In other of your videos you covered everything on the sides with wax. To me it makes sense not to put the wax on the sides where the cambium layers meet just in case it gets squeezed in and prevents the two layers from touching, hence failing the graft.

  • Great video's. What wax do you use?

  • Great video's. What wax do you use?

  • thanks for the reply stephen, i shall continue to watch your videos they are very informative and i have learned a lot from you!! thanks again friend for sharing your knowledge!!!

  • Hey stephen. Great information on this one. I have noticed that in some of your videos...maybe most, that you dont use anything on the wound after pruning. I think you said that from what you have researched its not too important. Is that correct? Thank ya sir.

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