AWD Colt Crossmember

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Uploaded by on Jan 25, 2012

Audio by RojoDelChocolate

If my car wasn't destined to be All Wheel Drive, then I wouldn't have needed to do any of this. For a FWD setup, I'd just mix and match engine mounts from different models and it's a bolt-on affair.

But I can't.

I've got a transfer case in the way and I had to work around it. I wanted one that closely resembled a factory part, and the factory part is roughly 1 7/8" stamped sheet metal in the shape of square tubing. Utilizing as much of the original crossmember as I could, and thanks to these chassis being sold in Japan and New Zealand, provisions are already on the chassis for an AWD crossmember, so it's not as difficult to fabricate as it could have been. I just can't get that crossmember in the United States... so I used as much of the OE crossmember as I could and then filled in the gaps. What I ended up with was the best thing I could envision.

I had no idea where this project would take me and everybody does things a little differently. I haven't seen how EVERYbody does this part of the job... though I've seen a few different methods online. Some were very simple and effective, making really good use of weight. Some were difficult to install. Some other designs seemed intrusive and took up a lot of room in the engine bay. Room that I would want to use for other things; however, almost ALL of the configurations were lighter than what I just did.

I think mine's the most serviceable. I found I can install and remove both pieces in any order which will have its conveniences later when I'm working on it... and it's stronger than the factory equivalent while maintaining the exact same function.

This part of the build was one of the biggest roadblocks to the Colt's construction in my mind because it was a total unknown. If you're doing this and you have this problem, just keep going back and forth from the bench to the car for a test fit until you get it right. If you'd rather buy one, don't ask me, I don't manufacture them. BUT, there is someone in the 4g61t forums who will do it for you for a price, and he does outstanding work from what I've seen. I'm disappointed that tape 5 was lost because it illustrated the benefit of the cutouts. Tucking the crossmember into the groove and maintaining at least a half-inch clearance lets you raise it another inch and a half higher which helps GROUND CLEARANCE. I've got the front pretty low on 16" steelies with a 3 1/2" drop. It's about 1/8" lower than the oil pan, so it will be fine. I had no idea what I needed to make before taking on this job (that's why it took so long). That means what you're watching is me working on the plane while I'm flying it. Not everyone would do it my way. I exceeded my own dang expectations. In my opinion, I don't think it could have turned out any better.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. I keep killing electronic hardware left and right. The crankwalk video took out my fileserver. Let's hope this isn't the start of a trend.

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Uploader Comments (Jafromobile)

  • Jafro, are u using a 120V welder? and what kind?

  • @ranacherian Yes, 120V. It's a Miller (Millermatic) 135. Great for home steel work, and supposedly convertible for Aluminum with a spool gun... but I've seen enough foot pedal action to know I want a TIG for that. I'm saving my money for a used Syncrowave 180 and a plasma cutter. Hopefully someday I can do pretty aluminum work in-house.

  • @Jafromobile i am in the market of getting a welder, was leaning towards the Lincoln 140. i am hoping i really dont need 220v like the Lincoln 180

  • @ranacherian You won't need 220v if you're doing stuff like this.

    The Hobart 140 got rave reviews from 'tuber weldingtipsandtricks, and it stacks up equally to my Miller. That's an INCREDIBLE channel, btw... If you want to know what different welders do, and how to run a good bead, his instruction can shave years of practice off. Definitely helped me.

  • Indeed, it's heavy. Probably 20-ish pounds. I figure I'm shaving 900 lbs. of body weight turning a Colt into a GSX, so I can probably afford it... and it's at the lowest point of the frame in the middle of the car so it's not bad for the center of gravity. It's probably about 8 lbs heavier than the stock one and most of that is in the rear mount. The factory crossmember is about 1/16" stamped sheet metal with a 1/8" base, and I used 1/8" tube steel for all of 2 feet of it.

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  • Awesome video Jafro, I just picked up a lil' '89 Colt myself and have started tinkering with it. It's definitely fun to put around in but I can already tell one of my dormant 4G's is going to have to get transplanted in there! It's a shame you don't sell these bud, they look like truly awesome pieces and though I'm pretty good with a wrench I have absolutely no fabricating talent. Take care!

  • When you're done see about a fab video on a new shelf lol

  • Great video! That's some skills you have there and such a work of art when the finished product gleamed.

  • Very nice ....... such a great bit of work.

  • O.O it's JafrOEM

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