Part Five - Travel Tales - Climbing Kilimanjaro

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Uploaded by on May 13, 2010

June 6 - Day 5 on the mountain
Today is the day!
Michael, Terry, Felix and Jacabo step out into the cold and darkness at 00:15. Order is determined - Felix to lead, followed by Michael, Terry and Jacabo. Terry and Michael have made a pact. If one needs to turn back the other will continue on.
The clear night sky is full of stars; what a sight - no pollution at this elevation. Head lamps are switched on and were underway.
Focus for Michael and Terry is the lower leg and the feet of the climber in front - the area illuminated by the headlamp. Terry concentrates on a mantra to keep his mind positive ... "One less step, one less step" each time stepping into the spot just vacated by Michaels foot.
We zig-zag up a steep field of shale and sand step by step for two to three hours. The loose footing is tiring. Felix only allows brief stops before urging us forward. Terrys hands are very cold - wrong gloves. Around 03:00 we reach Hans Meyer Cave and find it occupied by the Slovakian couple and their guides ... we dont see them again ... assume they turned back.
A point of light appears above us on the mountain ... it is coming down towards us.
Scree gives way to huge boulders and more solid footing, although the incline has noticeably steepened.
The single light is still moving down.
"Pole, pole."
The light moves even closer. Who could it be and why would they be coming down at this hour?
It nears. It is one of the two guides with the Dutch climbers.
If a guide has to turn back ...? Thoughts mess with our minds. Back to our mantras.
"One less step ... one less step ... one less ...."
"Step into the circle [of light] ... step into the circle ... step ..."
Snow appears among the boulders and soon it is almost constant underfoot. Felix is increasingly hesitant and looks around as if unsure of the trail.
"Is he lost," we wonder.
Suddenly, right in front of us is the Gilmans Point sign ... "You are now at / GILMANS POINT, 5681m / Tanzania / Welcome and Congratulations" ... we literally walk right into it. Felix wasnt lost.
Its 05:45 - the sky is beginning to brighten in the east. Jacabo passes around a thermos of warm water he has brought with him.
Felix points out Uhuru Peak around the craters rim to our left - the very top of Kilimanjaro.
"We arent even close!" is our first thought. The summit is still 1½ hours away ... move out.
"Pole, pole."
We reach Stella Point at sunrise. Its a beautiful, beautiful morning. Mawenzi Peak, which towered over us for much of the last three days is now below us. Is this for real?!
"Pole, pole."
Decken Glacier and Southern Icefield are on our left; the crater on our right.
Step by step.
"Pole, pole."
Rest.
The summit is in sight.
Gotta go.
"Pole, pole."
Weve arrived. Felix turns and faces Terry and Michael.
The summit sign is touched.
We made it ... the summit of Kilimanjaro ... 5895 metres, 19,340 feet.
"Can you believe this!"
Hugs and "thank you"s all around.
Michael, Terry, Felix, Jacabo ... and Ted (Terry had been carrying him in the day bag on his back) pose for pictures.
The only other people at the summit during the 30 minutes we spend there, are a young school teacher from Vernon, British Columbia and his guide.
The sun is incredibly bright and the air is starting to warm. At 8:00 we start back down. About 300m from the peak, we met a young man on his hands and knees being rather ill ... his eyes fixed on the summit sign.
Adrenalin has subsided. Were still layered up and are overcome with heat exhaustion ... the worse weve felt the entire climb.
When we reach Gilmans Point Terry and Michael are totally spent.
Felix and Jacabo help to strip us down and the shedding of layers has an immediate positive effect.
Looking down from Gilmans Point to Kibo Hut, helped us appreciate what we had accomplished earlier in the dark. One of the reasons the summit is attempted at night, besides being at Uhuru for sunrise, is that the mountain is just too intimidating during the day.
Descending through the loose scree takes its toll on Michaels knees and they are noticeable swollen when we reach Kibo Hut.
Short rest. Light brunch offered. Repack backpacks.
Its pretty much all downhill from here.
Reach Horombo Huts nearing 18:00 ... roughly 18 hours after setting out from Kibo Hut for the summit.
http://www.traveltales.ca

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  • Very inspiring video.

    I'm from Vancouver B.C., I was wondering if you could direct me to the right information source to make a trip like this come true.

    Thanks,

    JD

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