04 Dodge ram 1500 4.7 DIY power wire

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Entertainment

Tags:

• mobile
• dodge
• power
• mod
• engine
• powerwire
• wire
• cheap
• POT
• potentiometer
• diy
• 4.7
• ram
• magnum
• 1500
• st

[TTwins01]

I have the same truck with the 4.7 and the best thing to do is accept the power(or lack) it has, and/or buy one with the 5.7L HEMI. Then, you'd be trying to get better fuel economy. It's a trade off and unless your towing a HUGE boat (mine is 32 feet and never had a problem) there is no point. The 4.7 has done everything I have ever needed and sucks significantly less gas.

[unchainedbass]

@TTwins01 Also... the cats are removed from the truck and the down stream O2's are ziptied to the frame so the motor runs rich now, with this mod, the additional fuel from running rich, and cool fall air the truck is running like a champ!

[TTwins01]

Sorry, but everything you have done is wrong and an 8-10 hp gain is negligible.

HERE's WHY

Changing the intake air temp tells your computer that the air into the engine is colder, therefore more dense, and capable of holding more fuel. Most people think that the more fuel the bigger BANG, but LEAN is MEAN, RICH is SAFE. TRUE adding fuel cools the cylinders and therefore increases potential HP output.

[unchainedbass]

@TTwins01 The 1 correction I have for you is this... I am NOT just looking to dump more fuel into the cylinders, it's not about putting more fuel through the motor AT ALL... What this is for is to advance the timing of the spark slightly (equivalent to a few degrees on a cap and rotor traditional setup) to boost power. In my 92 F150 with a 302 I was able to advance the timing and gain a seat of pants feel of maybe 20 HP. This is all about the timing of the motor... not the air/fuel mix.

[TTwins01]

A reflashed ECU isn't always the safest option as far as the longevity of the engine, but usually produces the most power gains.

A perspective 30 HP, at the wheels, from an intake, exhaust, and reflashed ECU is about as much as you could expect to see.

[TTwins01]

REAL POWER:

Get air into and out of the engine as fast as possible. Velocity of air is better than a large volume of air. A smaller amount of fast moving air will produce more power than a large amount of slow moving air.

A true cold air intake and piping that is NOT larger than your throttle body intake.

A QUALITY exhaust will be tuned for better scavenging and will help pull exhaust out of the cylinder and therefore pulling fresh air into the cylinder as well.

[TTwins01]

A resistor only alters the output of voltage to the ECU, and does NOT trip a check engine light because the sensor you are trying to trick out is still technically within the set guidelines for proper operation.

[TTwins01]

A resistor on the MAF output wire would have the same effect as what you have done, BUT again the ECU(o2 sensors) would see a problem with the number of hydrocarbons per million and would adjust to meet the A/F ratio set by the factory regardless of what 1 specific sensor is telling it.

[TTwins01]

Either way, the cars ECU knows that something is wrong and fixes it. This is why tuning companies make the big bucks. They permanently alter your ECUs parameters allowing them to tune for the best possible power under certain loads. This is all determined by the MAF, IAT, TPS, o2 sensors, etc.

[TTwins01]

It DOES adjust the timing and fuel, but only temporarily until the ECU reads RICH and then the FUEL TRIM kicks in. This is where your oxygen sensors come into play. They instantly read RICH and the ECU(smarter than me and you) recalibrates its calculations to reach the optimum A/F ratio set by the ECUs factory parameters. Eventually, your LONG TERM fuel trim will compensate as well.

[TTwins01]

Unfortunately, your cars computer is smarter than you, and me for that matter. FUEL TRIM, specifically short term fuel trim, is the issue at hand. Your trucks oxygen sensors and MAF aren't being tricked by the mod you have done. The ECU reads a multitude of sensors to determine injector pulse width, NOT just the IAT. IAT may be one of the least important things the computer needs to know in order to do a air speed/density calculation.