How to make a Mash Tun Part 2 of 2
Uploader Comments (kebrown1980)
Top Comments
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I don't understand why you made the smaller copper pipe so long. Why didn't you just put the "T" facing the outlet?
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Mr brown,please dont stop there,show us how you use your 10 gallon mash ton,and what products you use,hell just show us your whole prossess,you seem to know what your doing,Im just learning butt I want to do this right,great video work by the way,thanks and have a great fourth of July,drink one for our men and women in uniform !!!
All Comments (28)
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Thank you so much for this video! I'm just starting my first all grain batch of beer and this gave me some great advice. Much obliged sir!
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Keith,
I'm not sure if this has been said before, but I made this mash tun probably 2 years ago. I have brewed countless batches with it, but I am just not beginning to become concerned with the shape of the washer on the inside of the tun. It seems to have rusted. What are your thoughts?
Thanks,
Jacob
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I called you Ken! Sorry Keith!
John W (UK)
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Very informative video, thanks for it. I am pretty new to home brewing and have considered putting together a system similar to this, but in your video I noticed your "manifold" is laying against the bottom of the mash tun, and you cut your slots in the bottom of your manifold. Have you ever had an issue with yeast residue clogging up those holes?
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@oxman0313 I was wondering the same thing. Is there a benefit to making the S curve with the 3/8" tubing?
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well i gotta say you da man!
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Brass does contain very small amounts of lead, but not enough to impact your wort.
If you are concerned, just use cpvc plastic fittings and tubing. I've heard it works just fine.
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Great video's man. However there is a slight problem with this one that people should be able to correct themselves if they've used plumbing hardware before. But for those that have not here is:
In your video you say that the barbed adapter threads into the reducer and then into the ball valve. However thats impossible since the A-815 reducer is FIP x FIP.
Here is the correct order:
Adapte(M)r-Hex Bushing(MF)-Ball Valve(FF)-Nipple(MM)-Reducer(F
F)-Compression(C-M) Thanks for the vids Keith!
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Are there health risks in using brass? I know copper is safe and stainless steel but i don't know about brass.
I have brewed many mini-mash beers, but I'm just now moving on to all grain. I know I've read many things about the depth of the grain must be at a minimun 4". Will this cooler be good for 5 gallon batches?
Jhonda00 2 years ago
Yes, it works for 5 and 10 gallon batches.
kebrown1980 2 years ago
Keith, just got one of the coleman coolboxes shown in your video. Not quite sure what the size of the hole in the box was after you took out the drain plug. Is it 1/2 " ? Trying to calibrate this to metric for the UK fittings!
chrisreboot 2 years ago
I think the hole size is 7/8". The 1/2" pipe nipple was able to fit through the hole.
kebrown1980 2 years ago