CLIMBING TOOLS: Tyeing into the middle of a rope

This is a usefull knot to know for glacier travel. We have covered this before but it never hurts to review. Also Mark talks a little on his thoughts while out with clients on the ice.

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[teledaveaustin]

I like the idea of keeping the connection chain as short as possible. And it'd perfect for keeping tabs on a youngster. Only problem is I'm very old, eyes are failing and the demo moves too quick, and I can't quite get it.

[mikebarter387]

Thanks this is quite a old shoot. Will do in high def at some point. Will let you know when it happens.

[mikebarter387]

What is being clipped off is not at all load bearing. If you where suspended by this knot you would see that the fishermans bow through the tye in points would load the harness. The point of clipping off is just to keep the knot clean and the end out of the way. It also reduces any chance of the knot coming undone in any way. The gear loops are more then strong enough for this function. Try tieing the knot hang on it and let me know how it works.

[dorke991]

i'm not glacier traveler so i dont know a lot about and i have simple question why not do just a simple butterfly ?

[mikebarter387]

utterfly , figure 8 , all will work. This is just an option to avoid clipping in if you are short on equipment. I also like to kep the chain as short as possible to avaoid the weak link.

In my guiding days I prefered to tye folks in because it took some effort to get off the rope rather then just unclip. Man is both the smartestt mammal and dumbest at the same time.

You are right you could use a locking carabiner to achieve the same result. Just the chain gets longer.

[frmertd]

Thanks for these videos, they have been a blast to watch and I've learned alot.

Can I offer a quote? " when I was 21 I thought my dad was the stupidest man on the face of the Earth. I didn't see him for 4 yrs and when i saw him again I was amazed how much he learned so quickly. " Mark Twain

[mikebarter387]

Good one thanks

Mike

[michaelortega25]

just throw in an alpine butterfly, its simpler and no need to clip it off.

[randeddy]

Hi German Kay. What an unusual name u have, sir!!!!

[akmediascope]

I subscribed-- not sure if I'm fond of the "Clint Eastwood" music, though

[Malvin619]

I think that they got the music right at the end - cowboys!! Never clip off to the gear loop.

[iambonker]

Um, tying off to your gear loops? As far as my extencive training went, this was a major NO NO. Does this guy have some kind of super harness that he can tie off on his gear loops?

[dorke991]

ha=] thanks