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stirling engine,lamina engine, with new stainless steel hot tube,thermal lag engine,thermoacoustic.

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Uploaded by on Jul 2, 2009

just added a stainless steel hot tube to the engine it seems to have added about 10 percent more performance over a regular steel tube now i get 5 volts ac and 200 ma .
those measurements are with no load for voltage and directly to ma meter but i did some testing tonight 7/7/09
test 1 == 1.7 volts RMS AC across a 12 ohm resistor.
test 2 == 2.8 volts RMS AC across a 25 ohm resistor.
test 3 == 3.5 volts RMS AC across a 50 ohm resistor.

new test 7-8-09 test without the choke cone to direct the air from the multiple choke tubes
results are as follows hard to start engine resonating but the trade off is once the engine is started i get more power
test === 3.5 volts RMS AC across a 25 ohm resistor = .56 watts.yaa hoo a whole .56 watts .there has to be a better way to suck more power from this engine it shakes the whole work bench and vice its being held in

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Uploader Comments (boyettewhite)

  • What are you using for a stack or regenerator?

  • @FrancoisTheChef im using medium and sometimes course steel wool i stretch it out long ways with the strands all paralell to each other and cut them to around 1 inch long so i end up with a 1 inch thick regenerator x the diameter of the tube not packed too tightly though needs to be somwhat loose i have found.just slightly squeezed into the tube i guess better air flow between the hot and cold side.

  • does anyone know how to counter balance a free piston engine without using a flywheel

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All Comments (13)

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  • I better pickup coil would improve the output, multiple even.

  • this is fantastic man

    keep going

  • This is very impressive. You've managed to do what a lot of us have been working towards. As for counterbalancing w/o a flywheel, try a flexible compression spring having a movable (adjustable) backstop. This is the future of alternating current generation, few parts, simple heat source (waste heat, cogeneration, solar) and local.

  • Wow! I really like this. I am just learning this type, but I do know linear alternators. Refinements to the coils and magnet spacing will yield the results you are looking for. Go to three phase, 3 coils, 4 magnets. Magnet wire needs to be coiled tighter and only as wide as magnets. Place magnets N-N, S-S face with steel washers between. This will turn flux outward. You'll have to bolt magnet assembly together on an aluminum or brass threaded rod. Spacing is critical - 1 phase at a time

  • Wow! I love your work. Not sure what counter balance is on the free piston. Can you educate me? Now without knowing what you mean - neodymium magnets repulsing each other would give a nice soft bounce.

    How are the small tubes you describe positioned?

    Use me as a resource if I can help. I know how to boost your four volts up if you want.

  • Balancing... is difficult. Especially at low frequencies its hard. You can try to get higer frequency by lowering the piston mass, or by adding a spring.

    The only way to "really" balance something like this is to hang it in free air, meaning the hot end will also move. If you get the mass of both moving parts the same, they will only move relative to one another (in the opposite directions) cancelling the imbalance out.

    You would need to hang them both in springs, maybe thin steel sheet strips

  • Oh yeah! great work this!

    From my experiences with these things, you can make the hot end MUCH smaller. I had one running with a small tube, where the stroke was over 20 mm, and the hot end was less than 10 mm. So, with my engine, the hot end was only half the stroke length!

    It ran like the devil ;)

  • Brilliant!!!

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