Mikes Mail EP 2

Mikes Mail Episode 2

In this edition Mike gives advice on how to maintain a lasting relationship. As http://youtube.com/sawbackwc asks mike his secrets to being a guide and yet maintaining a healthy relationship.
At what angle do you place a ice screw? http://youtube.com/mgbanach makes the bold statement that you always place a ice screw at a positive angle. (Downward so that the hanger is tilted in the angle of pull/load.) This was a comment make on the http://youtube.com/mikebarter387 site. Mike however is not really so sure that you can make a definitive statement like this and that perhaps ice quality may come into play also.
Kid and the outdoors. http://youtube.com/domu888 Domu has a 2.5 year old kid who he wants to introduce to the outdoors. I have a unit the exact same age so I can relate to his situation. I also have units 14 and 1`5 years of age and will take the same approach that I took with them I suppose. The youngest Jaxx is on the Banff climbing team and the oldest doesnt climb as well but skis like greased lightning.



Links to this episode.

Will Gadd has a good point and so do your crampons
http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2007/01/ice-screw-testing.html

Craig Luebben test found in Google Books
http://books.google.ca/books?id=eLJNVA3FwScC&pg=PA150&lpg=PA150&d...

Chris Harmston/Black Diamond
http://www.needlesports.com/advice/placingscrews.htm

Category:

Education

Tags:

• mountaineering
• climbing
• Banff
• Canada
• rockies
• sytems
• safety
• rock
• ice
• screws
• angle
• questions

[pishmishy]

Who plays your opening notes?

[mikebarter387]

@pishmishy just a riff on soundtrack pro library

[gmjohnson77]

My Hero.

[randeddy]

Who the heck is this guy and what did he do with mikebarter387??? Did he through him in a gulch somewhere or whatnot????

[beenblownup]

Great video Mike, just a comment on the ice screw placement debate. The video you showed about the angle of the placement is correct, ice screws are not too unlike a bolt. When calculating the strength of a bolt the ideal loading conditions are straight down the shaft of the bolt that way the threads hold the force. If the bolt is loaded at an angles the shaft experiences shear causing premature failure. Think of the area of all those threads versus just the shaft of the bolt. ?? thanks mike

[usernametakenthis]

Thanks for the advice on women, great help.

[LewisMattTramping]

Great video mike.

[jay65202]

another great vid mike! thanks!!!

[domu888]

Thanks for advice. Unfortunately, your daughters' advice comes just over 3 years too late! Anyway, the video was much appreciated: My wife seemed to think that it would be far too dangerous to go much further than the local park with our son, so the baby bouncer in the woods was a treat to see. Keep the videos coming!