Gundam/ mech model workshop 40: Add texture too styrene

A tutorial on 3 methods of added texture to your model kit.

Category:

Howto & Style

Tags:

• HGUC
• Zaku
• II
• F2
• Gundam
• weathering
• tutorial
• texture
• styrene
• plastic
• model
• kit

[wakcedout]

What I like about this is it can be applied to miniature wargaming, especially for my ork army or even if I ever get a forgeworld model for space marines and want to make it look beat up or old. I like the stressed idea for making a model look old, I can imagine showing stress on a dreadnought.

[mokanaman]

@wakcedout That is correct plus you are not limited to what I was deomstrighting. You can coat a surface in suerglue, use a cheap stiff brush and thick foke art paint for streaks or anything else one can come up with.

[crapmunky99]

Some very helpful tips, here.

I'll have to keep this in mind if I ever do a battle damage kit.

:)

[mokanaman]

@crapmunky99

Thanks man.

[lhasarus]

Great tutorial! The putty method and the use of a tooth brush was new to me. I did something similar with Mr. Surfacer before. I'll give it a try next time!

[mokanaman]

@lhasarus

The thick Mr surface or Mr dissolved putty is the same thing except no thinning is involved, there will be a slight difference due to brands which is a good thing. Glade you liked it.

[wakcedout]

@mokanaman and having stumbled on your channel and seeing the kind of weathering tips you give and show i am now starting to see that if i ever want to take my hobby to the next level of awesomeness i need to "think outside the box" and go looking for tips from other hobbies and see how folks do it there then take the lessons and apply it. i especially like your tip on decals a.k.a water transfers, as it helped answer why i have the hazy film around them and how to fix it in the future.

[paulvelando]

cool! i learned something new today ^_^ more power buddy!

[ernguyen2]

Thanks for sharing your secret!

[shadowblack1987]

@mokanaman Doesn't work like that though.

Take a look at machines that melt metal (and ore's), via conductivity (passing electricity through a 'loop' of metal). Also cold metal would not 'stick' too hot metal, unless the heat hawk would turn off while smashing into a enemy GM, then you would likely have your heat hawk stuck in it.

Id throw in technical terms but i'm way too tired haha.

Anyways, beam sabers are much better ;)

[mokanaman]

@shadowblack1987

With the size and detail of the heat hawk electricity would be arked across a high restaurant metal causing a high output of heat. If the blade was molting it would go smosh. But back to the conductor theory the basic shape will shift over time and after hitting one to many GM's while in a weak structural state. What would be cool is if we had left over molting metal from the GM on the blade.

I just gave the short version of this theory to keep the vid short.