How to clean a sport route.wmv

Instructional rock climbing video that shows how to clean the anchor chains and quickdraws on a sport route.

Category:

Education

Tags:

• rock
• climbing
• rockclimbing
• cleaning
• anchors
• how
• to
• clean
• quickdraws
• sport
• route
• climb
• chains

[z4yourself]

WARNING Personal anchoring systems like I'm using in the video are NOT designed to take static falls. An article that I read recently described in detail how those things can fail on surprisingly short falls from static anchors. One more good reason to always have a redundant connection between you and the rock! Since the video was made, I've dumped the anchor system that's shown in the video. Now I prefer to use two super long quickdraws that work nicely for almost all cleaning applications.

[thegibsonfromhell]

Hmm... Have you tested the effectiveness of a firemans belay with one of your ropes running through the quickdraws? It seems to me like there would be a whole lot of slack to pull out of the system before the firemans belay starts effectively braking the rappeller.

[z4yourself]

Whether your rope is running directly to the ground or through some quickdraws, there should be little or no slack in the system when you begin your double rope rappel. Even if a bit of rope gets pulled between the quickdraws as you're coming down, as long as your belayer pulls both ends of the rope tight, the fireman's style belay should create enough friction in your rappel device to arrest your descent. In other words, the affect of the fireman's belay should be immediate.

[steve02008]

i wanna climb there! that wall looks really fun, where is marble canyon??

[z4yourself]

@steve02008

It's actually Maple Canyon and it's just outside of Fountain Green, UT

[nuclearhudson]

BTW--what camera setup are you using?

[z4yourself]

It's a GoPro Hi Def. Glad you like the video!

[noahac1]

Really wonderfully done. Really helped, also thank you so much for explaining edict on permanent gear! Not alot of new climbers who just get out there know much.

[MikedotFoster]

@DaCravenator Way late, but it's a personal anchor system. It's like a daisy chain, but each loop is rated to take a fall.

[DaCravenator]

Is that a sling he is anchored into?

[RedDragon0719]

Great, great video. Im just getting into climbing and read that this one of the more dangerous maneuvers. I was getting scared just watching !

[ttljournal]

awesome job -- thank you -- very detailed, I would still get a guide to walk me through it for the first time but your video is excellent overview of the sequence of steps.