Skinning and Mounting a Mouse Part 2

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Uploaded by on Aug 15, 2010

Sorry for the delay- and multiple uploads. This *should* be the final attempt. Part two covers prepping the skin, building the body, and so on. Everything inbetween 1 and 3. Assuming I don't get anymore "copyright infringement" bullshit from YouTube on this =P

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Pets & Animals

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Standard YouTube License

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Uploader Comments (JenesisArt)

  • I use modeling clay. You can also carve a form out of foam, however for something so small it's best to use a hard-bodied molding material.  An epoxy sculpt would also be ideal.

  • what do you use for the model? it doesn't look like cotton

  • @SamGrim55 I use a modeling clay for this little guy

  • Did you put the actual eyes of the mouse on the clay? And, after using dry ice to kill the bacteria and dry it, is there anything else I need to put on it? The skin won't decay?

  • @BABBYlonian

    If you want to go a step further with your mouse, you can pull the tail bone out and use a wire (16 gauge might work, I'd have to double check that) to stuff the tail with. it will need only the tiniest bit of progressive padding to re-simulate the shape of the tail. If you have trouble recreating the skull, you may also use the original. Clean out the brain and excess muscle, pad with clay, and glue to your body. Glass eyes get stuffed into the eye sockets.

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  • Can I ask what type of clay you are using, can you use standard clay or should it be a special type? And what size glass eyes did you use? Thank you.

  • @BABBYlonian

    For good measure, especially with a critter as plump and round as a hamster, it would be good to take measurements and pictures of it's body in the position you want to mount it in. That will help ensure the skin will sit right and it will look real. Take note of any natural wrinkles in the skin as well.

  • @JenesisArt Thank you very much. I'm actually planning on doing it on a hamster. He sadly died due to overheat....

  • whoa? I commented the same thing 3 times? Wow, sorry about that. Must be some sort of glitch.

  • @BABBYlonian

    I used tiny black beads, available at any craft store. They can be punched into the clay, just enough so that they bulge out a bit like real eyes. If you want, you can dust the hide with Borax right before you put it on and sew it up. This dries out the skin and strips away the bacteria. As long as the skin stays cool and dry you should not experience any fur slipping. You can also tan the hide first if you want to be on the safe side, but it is not needed by any means.

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