Matterhorn descent P1/2

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Uploaded by on Aug 19, 2011

Climbing the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge in August 2011

The video is split into 4 parts - Ascent 1+2 and Descent 1+2

Training: Good level of general CV fitness + 8 weeks of specific biking, hiking and outside stair climbing - **all with as much gradient as possible** + 10KG backpack. Outdoor multi-pitch climbing up to grade 6 (you wont need it but good for confidence and height fear). Get used to being on your feet with steep gradient (up and down) with gear & clunky boots for 6+ hours straight. Learn to manage temperature, vigorous sweating, rehydration, and nutrition on the move.

Altitude training: Don't underestimate this. 5 nights sleeping at 1650M with 3 training ascents to 4200M (Breithorn, Pollux & Rimpflischhorn) then you hike up to Hornli Hut (3200M) stay the night and start from there at 4AM (with no sleep).

Matterhorn itself: Take a 1:1 guide as it is impossible to find the route. Dress cool as you will almost certainly be hot on the way up - long sleeve dry fit top (+spare) + light fleece + leather climbing gloves + light windproof jacket for summit if windy. At least 1.5L of isotonic + 4 x 200g food bars. Take a couple of ibuprofen 200mg halfway down - your knees will thank you.

Equipment: Head light, Helmet, Contour HD helmet Cam, Class B boots, crampons (- you do not need an ice axe) harness, 1x carabina, sweat band.

If you push yourself you can be up and down in 6.5 hours - it is a grind but enormously rewarding from the top - the summit and upper half is extremely exposed so you need to get the fear of heights thing sorted before you start.

Don't underestimate the work rate or the effects of altitude - 3 people were helicoptered off the mountain in the 6 hours I was there...

Drop me a note if you need a guide recommendation p120371@gmail.com

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  • ... I am watching this in my living room and I am shitting my pants... WOW

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