For checking the squareness of the blade, and this applies to ANY saw, it is always better to check the actual cut, and not just use a square against the blade.
For the JMP we use 1/8" masonite or baltic birch ply. Set the blade at the steepest pitch possible. Put the masonite on edge against the fence and make a test cut. Check the cut with your square. After you have determined square, be sure to put one of the Finger Stops at this setting.
Mike - This is good for getting the blade PARALLEL to the table, but I would say it's not sufficient for ensuring it's PERPENDICULAR. As I have written elsewhere, at present I am attempting the latter. Would you say aligning with a machinist's square suffices, or is there a cut-check-cut process that is more appropriate to a device that exists, after all, for cutting rather than for kissing up to squares? Thanks!
@AlaskaRangerBorealis
For checking the squareness of the blade, and this applies to ANY saw, it is always better to check the actual cut, and not just use a square against the blade.
For the JMP we use 1/8" masonite or baltic birch ply. Set the blade at the steepest pitch possible. Put the masonite on edge against the fence and make a test cut. Check the cut with your square. After you have determined square, be sure to put one of the Finger Stops at this setting.
BridgeCityMike 1 year ago
Mike - This is good for getting the blade PARALLEL to the table, but I would say it's not sufficient for ensuring it's PERPENDICULAR. As I have written elsewhere, at present I am attempting the latter. Would you say aligning with a machinist's square suffices, or is there a cut-check-cut process that is more appropriate to a device that exists, after all, for cutting rather than for kissing up to squares? Thanks!
AlaskaRangerBorealis 1 year ago
This JMP used in this video is from the first production run. The grey versions that are shown in other videos are the original prototype.
BridgeCityMike 2 years ago
Is this the second generation jmp?
GriffndorK 2 years ago