Alert icon
We're changing our privacy policy. This stuff matters.  Learn more  Dismiss

WATER HEATER REPLACEMENT - COVINGTON KENTUCKY - DUNBARPLUMBING.COM

Loading...

Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon
Upgrade to the latest Flash Player for improved playback performance. Upgrade now or more info.
52,459
Loading...
Alert icon
Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon

Uploaded by on Feb 3, 2010

http://plumbing-forums.dunbarplumbing.com - Here is a video which turned into a surprise after we installed and fired up the gas water heater. We knew when taking out the old one that there was deterioration on top the heater. Water was leaking out of the flue connection to the outside which is actually a cast-iron pipe that is not code in today's standard. That piping, if it was properly drawing flue gases to the chimney above would be somewhere in the nature of 300-500 degrees. Hot enough where you can touch that piping and get burned. Not a safe situation if someone is not aware that it is hot.

Dunbar Plumbing - 859-359-4833 Visit our Website at http://dunbarplumbing.com


We advised the customer instantly that there was an issue with the water heater not drawing properly and made sure that the unit was shut down before we left. With that piping that runs outside, we believe the piping is probably clogged full of brick and mortar where the piping turns into the wall with a 90 in and a 90 up inside the chimney. Accessing that pipe would involve cutting the piping and reinstalling another section but the point remains that the piping arrangement is incorrect and dangerous. From the condition of the old water heater it is evident that something has gone wrong with the venting aspect of this unit.

When we attempted to operate the new water heater for the first time, we sealed the openings around the holes around the flue pipe entering the cast iron and used an old rag to force the flue piping to warm up. A cold flue will not draw initially but this piping arrangement would not "catch-on" and draw upwards even with our attempts to force the unit to push combustion gases through the piping.

It's good this happened now the way it did as the potential for this unit to malfunction hours/days/weeks/months later could of resulted in carbon monoxide poisoning inside the structure. The house has been worked on in recent months (interior remodel/windows) that tightens up the air movement in a structure. This can become dangerous when you have a situation like this unfolding, not knowing how dangerous it can be.

The property owner elected to replace this gas water heater with a electric one to avoid any costs installing a double wall B vent that would be required to run along the outside wall from the existing location of the flue piping, to the roof of this structure that would be required to be high enough to allow for proper draw and remove exhaust gases from the water heater.

  • likes, 1 dislikes

Link to this comment:

Share to:

Uploader Comments (DUNBARPLUMBING)

  • Why not just run a new flue?

  • @armorhelix - We gave that idea as a first option, which would of involved exterior double wall B-vent running from the exterior (bottom) to the top, reaching 2' above the ridge of the roof. This involved another contractor (we won't do any work on ladders that high) and the major concern was 1. Cost 2. the condition of that degrading 100 year old brick and mortar that would be anchored to with over 20+ feet of B-vent. The customer did not like gas fired appliances either. Gas stove went first.

  • hi, I have this bad gas sewer smell in my house at time's, and I cleaned my sewers and vents, and still get that nasty smell at times and I notice when it rains sometimes the smell gets worst, I don't know what to do it's soooo frustrating can it be my water heater I do notice it smells near the area where it's at?

  • @altimaguy03 Sorry for the delayed response. Do a smoke test on your DWV (drain system) and you'll most likely find smoke emitting from a floor drain or cracks in the floor. You mentioning that smell after rains would instantly tie it to a drainage problem.

see all

All Comments (27)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • @massari4u it must be depending on other environmental factors as well, My house was built in 1870,s and I've no liner in either chimney, I have had NG tanked water heater in my kitchen closet running to the chimeny then up two stories and out without any noticeable plugging of the chimney, I have lived here for 33 years and nothing was done to the interior of the chimney it was checked out 7 years ago when recapped and pointed and I was told it was fine. I went tank-less this month for space.

  • @DUNBARPLUMBING I understand where your coming from especially if the customer is elderly, Here in NY, just about everyone here has a furnace in the basement as well which also uses a flammable fuel.

    As far as tankless maintenance, The many videos here show anyone capable of turning a wrench can do it in minutes with a cheap pump and white vinagar. The plugged flue would seem to be from moisture issues in that basement they should get fixed anyway.

  • @fathergratwick - Customer didn't like having a gas fired appliance in the basement, that's why the decision was instant for them to switch to electric. A plumbing sewer snake doesn't guarantee the flue will stay open, only a flue liner and they don't make flue liners for 4" cast iron pipe used in plumbing DWV systems. Direct Vent Tankless cannot overcome installation/retrofit charges to the savings they purport. Periodic cleaning charges wipes out those efficiency savings completely. Lime scale

  • @x2malandy WOW..others reading do NOT try these very stupid ideas! unless you want to blow up your pipes/chimney or start your house on fire!

    if anything I would think a simple plumbing snake might have helped... repairing the gas installation would have been the smartest thing to do vs inefficient electric setup which will cost more in the long run. just my 2 cents though. I went with a direct vent tankless unit myself which vents right out the wall.

  • no chimney liner. , most likely requires a 5" liner. THE MOST Common obstacle that we come by when dealing with a conventional vented water heater.

  • Hi, my water heater stopped working after the water service was interrupted. it stayed on for about a day without water pressure n most likely that 's the reason. Can someone help me figuring out what's wrong with it and how to fix it

  • Install Electric or use a power vent.

  • I think I would try a m80 in the pipe first while holding a 4 x 4 against it to help push out the clog, then wad as much newspaper up as I can, pack it the pipe and light it. Then take my leaf blower right away and shove it in the pipe. I;m thinking I would then take my garden hose and seal it inside the pipe with a lot of duct tape and hit it for a 10 minute flush and see what happens. I havent tried these things but where thers a will theres a way.

Loading...

Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more