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Woodworking #6 - The Jointer's Jumpin'

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Uploaded by on Dec 12, 2006

In this episode, I review one of the most critical and fundamental aspects of woodworking: milling lumber. I review my 4-step milling process, which requires some big tools. And since I know many folks don't have a fully outfitted shop, I also present numerous alternative methods for jointing edges and flattening faces. The jointer's jumpin'!!!

Check out all of our videos and projects at http://thewoodwhisperer.com

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Howto & Style

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Uploader Comments (TheWoodWhisperer)

  • 11:13 I really don't understand this point - if the timber is too wide to go through your jointer as it is, how does glueing it to an even wider board help?

  • @danebdon because we are sending it through the planer, not the jointer.

  • If one's jointer is jumping, are its bearing defective?  :-)

  • @ChrisBowlas If its jumping too much, return it. :)

  • Woodwhisperer---do you have a video on ways to turn your table saw into a jointer?

  • @carykong Only what you saw in this video.

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All Comments (25)

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  • @danebdon really how does that help

  • i read an article once about jointing with a table saw. you put a sacrificial fence on your saw and raise the blade up into it. then behind the blade, you put a thin piece of wood the width of the exposed blade and keep the board straight to that to joint an edge

  • Hi. According to this, especially the end of this video, I am decided about to build my own CNC router base. :-) Realize that feeling of timber perfectly flattening itself automatically during my coffe break :-) heh

  • I have a problem; whenever I use my jointer it creates a "wedge" shaped board, has anyone ran into this before? Email; justicejamesb@gmail.com

  • @LFWOL I try to avoid saying things like "always" and "never" in woodworking, lol. Always lands me in hot water. 99% of the time I go with the concave side down. But there are some instance where its more effective to go with the convex side down. Primary, with a thinner piece that just by virtue of pushing across the jointer, flattens out "artificially" from your hand pressure.

  • Good video, but I have to point out that your use of the word coplaner is incorrect.

    Two planes can be parallel, but to be coplaner would mean that the board has zero thickness.

  • With cups, I always have to put the convex side down. But I have to do it the other way with bows and twists. If I don't, I always find that the little bit of downward pressure I put on the board is enough (especially with long/thin boards) to press the center of the board flat only for it to spring back up to being bowed slightly. If I do it the other way, I don't put any pressure on the high spots (the ends) and those basically "float" over the knives and make the face come out perfectly flat.

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