Climbing Tools - 3 piece or more / anchors

This is a harsh little lecture on adding more pieces to the anchor. You may need to add several pieces of gear before you have what one would consider a bombproof anchor. Remember that the anchor can never fail or you can become a stat.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• climbing
• equalized
• anchor
• gear
• bolts
• Joe
• mexico
• girls
• paris
• hilton

[wburgboy75]

I've seen a sort of double sliding X on that type of rig instead of determining the direction of pull and tieing a figure of 8 or an overhand. In your opinion Mike, which is better and why? Sorry for the sumbitch of a multipart question, just trying to learn.

[mikebarter387]

@wburgboy75 Yours is one of the most common questions that I get. I cut a Mikes mail EP 3 about this but wasn't quite finished before heading on this road trip and didn't publish it. Give me two weeks then if I haven't published a anwer to your question email me again and tell me to get off my ass and get back to work. There are pluses and minuses to both systems and as it is a anchor we are talking about it should be addressed in some detail.

The Mike

[evanescence1984]

So whats the diameter of that accesory cord?

[mikebarter387]

6 or 7mm works fine

[twheeler76]

I understand clearly how to equalize a sling of cordlette or webbing using this method, but what if one desired to run a second sling of cordlette through the anchors for redundancy? How would you recommend getting the repel loop of the second sling to equalize with the first sling so that both slings share the load? I guess one would have to make the two slings the exact same length, wouldn't he? What are some other ways to back up the single sling of cordlette? p.s. thanks for the videos

[mikebarter387]

That is a valid question and quite easy to demo. I will try and build a video to answer that exact thing. Give me a week as it is tourist season and I am stashing patres and old donuts for the coming winter

Mike

[evanescence1984]

@mikebarter387

I got a 6mm 6meter accesory cord which can carry about 700 kilos. How about using a long

dyneema sling instead?

[aikidophreak]

So, you show a great method of using a staticly equalized anchor, which works great if the climb is right over head of the anchor. But lets say that pitch 2 heads right or left of the anchor and there is a good possibility that a swing will happen if the leader falls. What kind of dynamic equilized anchor would you use (example the sliding X). so that way the falling climber will not load only one side of the anchor and possibly blow out a stopper/cam. I would like to see a vid like that.

[dorke991]

how much mm rope u use for the anchor?=]

[zihyer]

Well said and, yes, you're right - the method you have is very basic and therefore safer since it's less likely to be built wrong. Flipping the webbing and lark's foot knots are probably better off not attempted by a beginner.  Thanks!