TR Cutting School - Easing and Forming

(Processing your work: Easing and Forming)

In this section we look at the location of the cardinal points and apex areas on bodice blocks. By now you will have achieved some good TR results, having completed the exercises in the preceding chapters.

However, when you start to use more complicated seams, it becomes a little more difficult to identify the true location of the bodice's apex points. To re-establish these cardinal points, I suggest you simply remark the bust points, waist points, side seams and neck and shoulder seams before continuing to draw you TR style lines.

When you analyse the curvature of the human body, the location of the body's apex points will become obvious.

Re-establish these key areas by marking them directly onto your bodice block. Eliminate the princess seams and side seams.

With your cardinal points located approximately in position, your newly drawn TR style lines should pass close to each point whilst not necessarily touching them. You can leave a 3 to 4cm margin from the re-established apex points.

After you dismantle your pattern pieces you may find some do not completely flatten down, dependent on where you have drawn you TR style lines. However keep in mind that any style lines, which pass near a convex shape, i.e.: bust point, hip point and so on will mean that you are left with a "mountain" shape. Should your style lines pass near a concave shape, i.e.: waist point, the small of the back, etc. you will be left with a "valley" shape. You will therefore find it quite hard to find a perfectly flattened pattern piece.

These "mountain" and "valley" shaped pattern pieces will need to be processed, eased or formed to ensure a true fit in your final garment.

Firstly, clip two notches located near the un-flattened apex point. In the case of a "mountain" point, vertically clip either side of it so that a small dart opening allows the pattern to lay flat. The two marked notches indicate that this area needs to be eased during the reconstruction procedure.

Regarding a "valley" shaped apex, you will need to notch the area and stretch the fabric with the use of an iron, to accurately reconstruct the pattern's shape.

I recommend pinning your toile onto your new "yet to be shaped" pattern pieces for accuracy, as your end results will differ greatly should you ignore the way in which they were originally developed.

For further infomations,
www.trpattern.com

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