How to ice-axe self arrest

A practical guide to ice-axe arresting taken from the British Mountaineering Council's 'Winter Essentials' DVD with their kind permission. Full DVD available here: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Pages.aspx?p...
For more videos like this, visit www.livefortheoutdoors.com

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[Charles Leiserson Jr]

While he is being very cautious, it's probably best not to get into the habit of using your feet. When you slip, you're most likely to do whatever you've practised automatically. If you've practised digging in your toes, and you happen to be wearing crampons, there's a good chance you'll break an ankle.

Besides, knees are always better in case you hit a snag-- your hip is a much stronger joint than either your ankle or your knee.

[Milo X]

Seen that happen on Shasta the first time I climbed. Guy lost it glisading in his first arrest attempt at the top of red banks. Didn't stop for 2500 feet.  He was bouncing 6 feet off the snow. Walked away with bruises. Damn Lucky.

[thricefelt]

Do you think its best to hold the pick forward or backward? I dig your videos.

[thricefelt]

If you read freedom of the hills it says to hold the ice axe with the pick facing forward instead of backwards like the video. If you do need to self arrest you would then rotate the pick with the other hand and re grip it. I was told by a guide that holding the axe pick forward is better for climbing and that "we are climbers not fallers." Thoughts? Also there is a vid on my channel of a real self arrest situation caught on my go pro on mount rainier that is worth checking out.

[Halldor Sigurdsson]

It´s not just about breaking your ankle. When you slip and slide with crampons on the danger of the crampons biting into the ground and fumbling you over are pretty big. Make it a habit to lift your feet, that´s the rule.

[lilnova73]

Since this is the #1 video that comes up and folks may be using it to substitute proper in-field instruction, I should point out some major problems with it.

1) Not walking in balance. (FALL)

2) Hold axe so that the adze fits in the curve next to your neck, not into your neck (INJURY).

3) Feet are more effective in arresting falls, and quickly. Knees are only used when wearing crampons/snowshoes. (FAILED ARREST)

4) Don't take the axe out of the slope while you're still falling. (FAILED ARREST)

[ModestMagician]

Thank you for sharing, I know this is no substitution for proper training, but I never like to go into any situation with no prior knowledge, even if it is a training environment.

[Jenscool]

Hey WEEZIL...did u slip since ur gone???

[blondwiththewind]

HaHahaaaaaa!!!! Good luck with that plan!!! LOL

[Bryantt Spross]

practised digging

[hallerd]

What did Mallory do wrong? Did he just strike a shallow patch of snow with rocks or what?

[westernhighstyle R]

Father, Son and Holy Ghost If your ever in that situation. You'll still probably die!