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How To Solve Honda Idle Problems

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Uploaded by on Oct 25, 2010

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/
The viewers have chosen and this weeks video will be about solving Honda idle problems. I'm really not surprised as I get a lot of questions and requests about this very subject. Here are the links I promised in the video that will help you address specific issues mentioned in the video.

How To Bleed a Cooling System

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU

How to Check for Vacuum Leaks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok

Reading Check Engine Light Codes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BD05sPclLyE

Diagnosing an Overheat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImI

Hopefully when your done checking all that stuff out you will have solved your Honda's idle problem, if not leave a comment or send me a message and I'll see what I can do just make sure you have tried all the stuff in the videos first as that saves me from typing so much.

I also want to add my "Idle Speech" into the mix here:

 
There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of that engine however here are some things to start with.

First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don't change the wires if they are OE, if they aren't OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE.  A quality cap and rotor should be good.  A new air filter also helps.

Don't change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I've seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE's last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.

Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.

While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to 'chunk' as it spins causing a rough idle.  If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it's not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.

DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.

Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.

If you still have a 'rough' idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.


Stay dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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Uploader Comments (EricTheCarGuy)

  • Hey Eric, I had this idle problem on my '92 Accord for weeks before I took any action. Called my mechanic, (I'm pretty good with a wrench, but he does the big, time consuming stuff), I decribed the problem to him over the phone...he said, "Oh yeah, that's the idle control valve, that'll be $450.00. I then did some research and found your video...THANKS, you saved me some BIG BUCKS!!! I'm positive he would have done the same thing I did, and would have made out like a bandit. Thanks man you ROCK.

  • @420tonight I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.

  • Excellent video! Very informative and understandable. This is exactly how car problems should be solved. Just throwing money and parts at your car problems will not necessarily fix them. Even if you are not mechanically inclined and take your car to the shop (like me), at least educate yourself about what the possible problems are before you go in. Then you will have a reference point. This makes a big of difference in the service I get, and I am able to tell which auto repair shops are honest.

  • @tehparrot You know when I started doing this I had that VERY thought in mind, it's great to know that has worked out as I had hoped. Thanks very much for your comment.

  • i have a 94 civic ex and it idles smoothly at 400 rpm and ive noticed when i crank it and its idling at 1000 tht it takes off really good but when idling at 400 it takes off really slow so do u think if i adjust the fast idle thing it will make my car idle around 750 would b good

  • @dillondeal DON'T adjust the fast idle first thing, look for vacuum leaks and bleed the cooling system first.

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  • hey man do i have to pull my motor out or could i easily access it from the engine bay...looks a little tight

  • How to solve Honda engine problems; replace with a proper engine from a different manfacturer.

  • hey eric, so i have a volvo and recently lost control of my car and hit a curb and now my car turns off when i am less than 25mph, do u think maybe its a idle issue or any suggestions?

  • I don't have that issue but do have a an integra with a bad idle low and stays there replaced about everything can u please help me

  • Fixed it right up. Thanks man!

  • @urbex2007 Further example! Friend took his Astra in as it got to 3000RPM and the engine light come on. (diesel turbo car) He got the fault code holding down the accelerator & brake and turning the key. We did some fault finding and thought it was the Boost Pressure Sensor. Vauxhall dealership wanted £80 for codes, £300 to clean the intake manifold and said it was the turbo at fault...we got a part for £35 off ebay, fitted it and the car has been fine for a year. You NEED to fault find first!!!

  • You should teach Ford & Vauxhall dealerships in the UK how to fix cars. They start the clock, throw parts at the car for which they charge (even if it wasn't that part faulty), make excuses, then give a huge bill. They even insist on £80 for reading fault codes, even though they don't show the exact faulty part. For example, broken MAF sensor can show "emission" fault codes. People have lost the art of fault finding, they simply don't do it. I go to independant garages for a decent service.

  • this vid pretty much answered all my questions on this matter, thx a lot man

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