Installation of an Air Conditioning System ductless minisplit ductless mini split

Installation of an Air Conditioning System ductless minisplit ductless mini split .
A Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump can heat and cool your home with solid energy efficiency. A mini-split is ideal when you have limited space in which to work or the location to be cooled and heated lacks sufficient ductwork. And with a heat pump, you can achieve solid energy efficiencies that will save money. A basic mini-split is rated at least a 13 Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating and some models can reach even higher SEERs. These units provide effective air comfort where you need them to while maintaining low energy consumption.
A Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump is not the most difficult HVAC system to install, but it is not something to take lightly. Proper installation is key for achieving the best energy efficiencies the unit can produce.
By design, installation of the interior unit of a mini-split is relatively simplified. The most difficult electrical work is already done and housed safely within the system. What is required is properly mounting the unit itself on a wall and then running the various connections to the outdoor unit.
Start by removing the wall mount from the back of the mini-split interior unit. Then, pick out a spot on a wall surface where you want the unit to be secured. After you have decided, use a level to mark out drill points and secure the wall mount according to instructions. You will have to drill holes that are level with one another. Through this process, be sure you have marked the area so that you know where you are going to drill.
Measure twice, cut once. It's a carpenter's rule and it works here. For us, we want to measure twice and drill each hole once. One thing our interior walls probably do not need are unnecessary holes.
After you have measured, drilled and installed the wall bracket, make sure the latch points are secure. The last thing you want is for the mini-split to tumble off the wall. Once the wall mount is ready, carefully unfold the refrigerant pipe making sure not to damage the tube in the process. Next, drill the hole for condensate drainage making sure to angle the hole slightly downward so gravity can do its job.
It is important to note that you are going to combine the condensate tube, refrigerant line and conduit wire in the same bundle so you only have to have one hole going through your wall. Secure these together using tape and make sure the bundle is tightly packed to reduce needed space and making running them through the wall easier.
Be careful not to damage the components in this process.
Now, once the wall mount is ready, the condensate tube is attached, the refrigerant line is secure, plugs are installed, and the electrical cable has been run through you are ready to mount the interior unit on the wall. Lift the unit in to place making sure that the tube/line/cable combination pushes smoothly through the opening you drilled.
After attachment to the wall mount the interior unit should be firmly secure and your refrigerant line, condensate tube and electrical cables should be run through the wall.
It is time to install the outdoor unit.
On a mini-split heat pump, the outdoor unit is composed of a condenser, efficient compressor and installation kit.
Before beginning, you will need to decide how you want to place the outdoor unit. You can put it on a pad, mount it on an exterior wall or place it on a rooftop. Wherever you want to place your outdoor unit always remember to make sure it is properly secured before you make any connections between the interior and outdoor systems. For this video, we will be installing the outdoor unit on a pad.
When the outdoor unit is properly placed on the pad and anchored you may remove the flare nuts from the surface valves. If you are using prefabricated line sets, then the flare nuts may be discarded, but if not they may be flared onto the lines that will be connected to the system.
Before you start doing any cutting you need to make sure all the pieces are ready and you need to consider the proper tubing configuration. If the condenser is mounted higher than the air handler you must insure that there will be proper oil return to the compressor. You will need an inverted trap immediately exiting the condenser unit and additional oil traps for every 16 feet of vertical pipe run.
With those requirements met, you are ready to cut. After you cut the copper tubing, be sure to clean the interior of the tube so there are no fragments remaining inside from the cutting process. Excess material left over may cause corrosion. Also, cut carefully so you do not dent the copper tubing.
We carry a full line of ductless mini split units from 13 to 30 Seer . We offer free lifetime technical support and 24/7 phone service. Feel free to call us with any questions at 855-INGRAMS or 1-800-360-1569 , Visit BetterwayAC.com for more information on ductless mini split heat pumps and air conditioners.

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[Xringer]

@Simeonx1 Haha.. When doing your own install, you can take as much time as you need.

My first pressure test was 24 hours. :) (You can tell, I'm retired).

I've found out (reading around the web) that trying to get 50 microns isn't really necessary (200 is fine) and 50 microns might be harmful in some cases.

Overall, I liked the video. It puts the process in a neat packet. It's good preparation for reading the install manual cover-to-cover.

[Xringer]

@Simeonx1 R410A does not contribute to ozone depletion, and almost all of us DIY installers call in an R410A certified tech to inspect and perform the final steps. Otherwise, the warranty is worthless.

DIY electrical for a mini-split is so simple, anyone can learn how to do it.

In my city, the electrical inspector checks the homeowner's work and signs off on it, (If it's up to code).

Just need to get the permit (and permission) before starting the work.

[Simeonx1]

NO DIY Eletrical and air con , it will zap you and fuck with the oz zone . IS this stupid company giving out warranty for all the home job installs?

[Simeonx1]

@Xringer Good post, YOu only need to bubble the hex key valvue part after gasing . The first pressure test if you leave it for 10mins or so and it doesnt drop then the vacum stat doesnt move , no point going to crazy with the bubbles again .

[Xringer]

The last steps of the install were confusing. The installer and the narrator were out of sync.

The video didn't make clear what steps needed to be done in sequence.

Here's the way I've seen it done..

A. Pressure test using soap bubble-check (Nitrogen gas is best)

B. Vacuum the line set (under 200 microns is good in most cases).

C. Only then use the Hex key to release a short 5 second burst of refrigerant into the line-set.

D. After one last soap bubble check, open both valves all the way.

[MuminE13]

Very informative ... nice video

[LLOYADVANCE]

nice video, ilike your drill matchine

[mko549]

At 4:49, you mentioned that this can "be mounted on an exterior wall." Doesn't the unit need to be 18" away from the wall? Would appreciate the clarification so I can decide if I can use. Thanks!

[twentysix23]

nice video too.

[twentysix23]

wow to the machine that make the whole!!! i like it!!! nice very awesome job!!!!