This is a 1974 Honda CB 125 turned into a re-created CL bike. These are easy to convert from CB to CL model. The only hassle is changing over the disc brake forks* to the CL drum brake forks. I picked up all the exchanged parts on ebay over the past 2 years. Tip: if you want a CL, just BUY a CL off ebay! Even getting parts as cheaply as you can, it still costs more than the finished bike is worth to convert a CB to a CL. I think I have $1500 in the bike, but it's worth $1200 at best. Sure looks cute and gets tons of stares, though :) Tip two: Re-jet the carb! Honda 100 and 125s are gutless with anything heavier than a teenager on them. and there isn't much you can do with them. But one trick is to get a main jet off a 1976 CB 125. This was a one-year-only carburetor that featured a 110 jet as opposed to the 98 jet on the earlier years. The larger jet gives it better throttle response. As to how to get the jet, I can't say. I had a 76 carb and swapped the jets out. If there is a kit for the 76 model, it will have a jet. Otherwise, you'll have to check with Honda. Note: the '76 carb will not mount to earlier year bikes. Another trick is to buy an aftermarket 22 MM air filter for better air flow. Remember--AIR FLOW = HORSEPOWER. You want as much unrestricted air going through the carb as you can get. Beyond this, KEEP THE TIMING CHAIN ADJUSTED PROPERLY! These bikes are notorious for timing chain problems. They need constant adjustment, and have a badly designed tensioning system to start with, so keep a constant ear out for any timing chain noise, and adjust promptly when there is a rattle or whine. Fail to keep the timing chain adjusted properly, and you will not be happy... Just adjust the screw in or out with the motor running until the motor is as quiet as you can get it. Then tighten the lock nut down. That's the easy but unscientific way to do it. Here is how you'll REALLY do it: Lay the bike on its right side. If you're worried about gas spillage, lay it against a wall or something so that it is at least lying toward its right (to avoid oil spillage). Now get some impact tools and loosen the screws holding both the sprocket and generator covers. Remove them and you will now see the coated generator windings of your generator before you. Unscrew or impact loose the 3 screws holding them down. Using equal pressure on two sides, pull it free and maneuver it over to your right, out of the way. You will now see into your engine, and part of both sides of your timing chain will be visible on their guides. Stick a screwdriver on the right (the tensioner) side and test the tension. If it is slack, loosen the timing chain tensioner locknut and screw OUT the screw to tighten the chain as needed. Check to verify chain is adequately tight. You don't want it tight as a guitar string; a little slack is proper. Put everything back together. You need not impact the covers back on; strong hand-tightened is fine, or use a light impact. (The cheap screws strip easily...) Start the bike. It will sound nice and smooth now, but listen for a whine. If it whines, screw IN the adjuster screw to loosen the chain (up to one and-a half-turns if needed, I'd suggest), then tighten the locknut. You should then have a timing chain that is properly tensioned and will last hundreds (yay!) of miles without needing another tightening. Life expectancy for one of these motors seems to be around 4000 miles or 10000 miles. I say that because the speedometers I see for sale off them at Ebay seem to have mileage readings in the 4000 mile range or the 10000 mile range. My speculation is that the higher mileage bikes had regular timing chain adjustments and oil changes (USE 1 BOTTLE OF FULL SYNTHETIC OIL and change it every 500 miles for maximum protection), and were NOT REGULARLY DRIVEN HARD on takeoffs. (This is common because the bikes go slow, and in modern traffic a--ahem--"mature" rider will often over-accelerate to try and get the thing to move as fast as he remembers these bikes going when he weighed a hundred Lbs. less as a teenager.) Speaking of the old days, I recommend you use true tetraethyl lead additive in the gas to help the valves last longer. A half-ounce per tank is more than adequate. You can buy it thru the website realleadinstead.com. By the way, if you happen to have a 1960-s70s 4 stroke Honda (or whatever) bigger than a 175, you ABSOLUTELY MUST--repeat MUST--use true lead additive in the fuel! Take it from a guy who has owned and worked on numerous classic Hondas, THE VALVES MUST HAVE TRUE LEAD IN THE GAS TO AVOID PREMATURE WEAR! Back to the 125...if you buy one of these bikes online, shipping it to you should run around $400. Use Uship.com. I worked with Don (dnjens@hotmail.com) who did a great job getting my bike from Michigan to California for $300 in 2007.
* The lousy disc brake on the CB 125 is garbage. They always stick, and you're better off with dependable drum brakes.
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HONDA CB125 ベンリーby ooCB750Koo93,871 views
I want it, LOL
EdisonCollector 3 months ago
Do you still have this bike??....
SHRIKE427 1 year ago
@SHRIKE427
yep--spent 6 months last year using it as a daily driver while my 350 and 175 were down
EdisonCollector 1 year ago
Just make sure it's LOW MILEAGE! Over 4k is really risky unless the owner really took care of it and adjusting the timing chain regularly
EdisonCollector 1 year ago