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Uploaded by on May 9, 2010

Here's an email from a mate who surfed today in sets just like this!
Oooh Im still frothing from this morning surfed Bells & got some absolute smokers. The endorphins are juiced & itll be a hard day to keep still after the waves I scored this morning. Euphoria peaked when there were 3 of us 30m out past the other half dozen guys out & we saw the horizon lift & began the mad paddle, 2 went wide & I went straight out over the first wave, over the second and the third one was another 2 foot bigger than the rest I had taken about 4 strokes up the face of the wave & there was spray flying everywhere & then something clicked in my head & said you could catch this, I spun a couple of strokes & Im standing on top of this beast & 40m down the line I can see the other guys wondering whether Im going to make it or not their jaws open as Im flying down the face of this thing - & I ride the wave all the way to the sand and come in just the Bells side of Winki.

Chuffed

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