Proper Technique for Flashing and Window Installation
Uploader Comments (BuildingGeek)
All Comments (30)
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why was the building wrap not taped to the top flange before you moved on to doing the siding? As a draft barrier the header area is most critical because commonly, it is the area with the least wall cavity insulation. Also the sill apron area is going to be drafty for two reasons. 1) you shimmed the legs up widening the uninsulated gap. 2) you mention not insulating the space between the inside sill pan lip to the exterior face. why?
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yep
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@BuildingGeek . I have read the manufacturer's installation instructions for all the major brands including Anderson, American craftsmen, pella, Marvin and they all state you must CAULK the rough opening before putting the window int place. If you don't do this you will void your warranty. Flashing tape will leak eventually you need a second layer of defense behind the flashing tape which is the caulking
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@BuildingGeek @BuildingGeek actually manufacturers all say you HAVE to caulk the rough opening before putting the new window into place
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what does it mean to flash a window
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pretty informative but he talks like a gay california liberal and that annoys me
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dude the last thing any window needs is blue skin to seal it\ the shit is a moisture trap just do a test weeks after job done looks good but no good
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ok there is a million and a half ways to instal a wndow i have seen like 10 diffrent ways in person they all work its just how u do stuff and every one thinks there way is right
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his glasses are very distracting... lol
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Vycor (flashing) product instructs that it should be applied on the substrate under the Tyvek, not over it. I was told yesterday at a building supply store that applying Vycor on Tyvek can result in moisture problems.
Why did you not caulk the back of the flange prior to setting the window?
doagoodjob 3 years ago
As Kohta points out, you could in fact caulk the back of the flange, but is not required since there is a good seal on the exterior surface with self adhered membrane, and low expansion foam seal between the window and the frame. Care should be taken that the caulking is compatible with the building materials, and that the bottom flange of the window is not caulked. The Water Management Guide reads, "Sealant bead at jambs and head may be optional base on risk factors"
BuildingGeek 3 years ago