This video shows exactly what is required to catch and ride a wave making you finally a true surfer. Notice the wave sense of the surfer as he see that the peak of the wave/swell will form to be at it's biggest to his left. Being right outside whats called the "impact zone" he paddles towards the peak,switches direction towards the beach and paddles furiously for just a second before pouncing to his feet like a ninja. Like riding a bike one can balance quite easy as your forward momentum keeps you quite steady. Practice makes perfect. This video shot from the top of the cliff at Beacons beach in North County San Diego by yours truly bigtomscience. Thanks for watching
bigtomsurfbeast.
jointsmoka420 8 months ago
BigTomSurf
chub321 8 months ago
cool
ThatsClassic714 8 months ago