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My wife and I are planning on building a vertical log cabin, often referred to as a stockade style log cabin. Here are some pictures to give you an idea. Here's one...here's another, and here you go.
Anyway we'll be moving to Alaska, probably near the Kenai Peninsula or Matanuska Valley. Of course we're going to try and avoid permafrost, but who knows exactly what kind of land we'll buy.
Our vertical log cabin in Alaska will be constructed on concrete posts that'll be poured into Sonotubes that are buried below the frost line (probably around 40 to 50 inches underground).
And then the posts will come up about 18 inches into the air...at which point we'll begin the cabin. So yes, the cabin will be raised about 18 inches off the ground.
Anyway, I have no experience to build anything of this magnitude, but this doesn't scare me. My wife and I look forward to the challenge. So needless to say, I have a lot of questions, lots more research to do, and plenty of planning that awaits us.
I'm posting this video to present my plan for the concrete posts and the insulated floor that will sit atop these 10 concrete posts.
First, here is my rough sketch for our small vertical log cabin. It's 10 feet by 35 feet. I've kind of modeled it after an RV, so I call it our RV cabin. It seems like it'll be a nice comfortable cabin that will serve us well. And it seems like it'll be somewhat easier to build than other plans.
Anyway, I'll make another video later on and go over the interior and how everything will be laid out.
Okay...so here is my plan for the concrete posts and the insulated cabin floor.
1)The grass (or the ground). We'll start by clearing the ground and marking off the perimeter of the cabin, making sure the 90 degree angles are correct.
2)We'll dig our holes for the concrete posts and fill the bottoms with about 6 to 12 inches of gravel.
3)Then we'll insert our Bigfoot footing that has
4)...the 12 to 18 inch diameter cardboard Sonotube, and then will fill them both with concrete.
5)We'll make sure to insert 3 rebar bars before the pouring. What size rebar is best? Thoughts?
6)The sill bolt will go into the Sonotube before pouring and the bolt will stick out about 6-12 inches.
So after we pour the concrete, we go on to...
7)This is the part I'm a little unsure about it. Should we put down some kind of thick plastic sheeting that will be directly in contact with the elements, or should we apply some kind of coating to #8, the bottom subfloor)? Would polyurethane work?
8)So the bottom subfloor will be hooked onto the sill bolts. I'm guessing we should drill a hole in the bottom subfloor sheet of wood, and then just hook the board to all of the sill bolts. Right?
9)This sill log will be a 3-sided log (here's a picture) And we'll mill this sill log with an Alaskan saw mill...which is an attachment to a chainsaw.
10)So here we'll put in the floor joists by attaching them to the sill log by means of a gain and tenon fit. And then we'll put in the insulation.
11)Here we'll nail on the top subfloor. Should we put any kind of coating on this? Polyurethane?
So after we erect the vertical logs complete with the roof, we'll add #12, the carpet.
Okay? So what do you think? Please don't be shy about your critique! I can handle constructive criticisms! Thanks a lot and please leave a comment if you have any thoughts about our plan.
Thanks!
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Amazing Low Cost Self-Buildby HomebuildingMagazine253,853 views
i see joists, but no beams?
ugkcdrock 1 month ago
you need an AIR BARRIER for item 7. something equivalent to tyvek.... poly will be under you subfloor as the MOISTURE BARRIER..if they are reversed your floor system will rot...
billgator2005 1 month ago
As for #8 it will need to be protected from moisture and I'd also place a skirt of either aluminum or stone to keep rodents from boring in.
usmcoth 1 month ago
Hey GoRambling! sent you a message before i realized this is two years old at least.Very curious how this is working out for you or if your now cozy in God's back yard?Maybe do a follow up video for all of us who are wondering how you're doing??Best wishes,Luke
LutherRayable 3 months ago
If you put skirting it to should allow for ventilation. Also to reduce the humidity underneath you could put an impermeable rubber/plastic sheet, and ensure you have adequate (min. 2%) ground slope.
What are you planning on doing for plumbing?
jeffreysouth 3 months ago
Your Vapour barrier (plastic wrap) must go on the warm (humid) side of the insulation.... best if its on the joists and below subfloor. Where you plan on putting it, it will cause water pooling, then freezing etc... You could put something under the insulation but whatever it is ensure it is perforated for ventilation.
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BeccaTheo 3 months ago
How's your project going? I'd be interested to see what's new. Did you figure out the vapour/moisture barrier issue? Did you go with fiberglass, roxul, cellulose, rigid or a combination for insulation? I'm mulling over my own planning options for a raised pier cabin. I'm leaning towards roxul batts between 2x10 joists for the floor and SIPS for walls with a scissor truss roof. The idea is to heat as little as possible in the winter with wood.
donsjuand 4 months ago
@Mrcaffinebean stay out of it shit tits.
Soundgarden8497 5 months ago
@Soundgarden8497 As far as I'm concerned the production quality was leagues better than most videos on youtube.
Mrcaffinebean 5 months ago