Dolakha has it all for the inquiring and the attentive. If you are with someone who knows the area like his palm-lines, there is every chance that you will soon understand the changing ethos of the place. The town's neat and well-regulated life steeped in age-old traditions. The fresh air, the tourist spots that are almost voluble about their ancient tales, and the simple, believing people immediately send to rest the typical desperation of the resident of a metropolis. Perhaps that is why the Maoists spared the town, influenced by the spell of its feminine beauty.
In ancient times when Nepal had a profitable trade relationship with Tibet, this was the route that merchants used. It was then that this town rose to prosperity. There are still some houses belonging to those times. According to some locals, the town has more or less faithfully maintained its past appearance.
Apparently, as soon as trade and commerce dried up, Dolakha ceased to age. Despite the time-ravaged houses, the town is young, and so are its sons who constitute one of the most reliable work forces for odd jobs in the capital. When Laxman was injured and the great ape-god Hanuman was asked to bring a certain medicinal herb for the rescue, the mighty ape-god hovered on the sky above Dolakha, say the locals. Probably the beauty of the region dulled his sense of judgement and he ended up taking a chunk of a hill near the Gaurishanker mountain. "You can still see a chunk missing there," says Rakesh Shrestha of Ccho-Rolpa Tours and Tavels. And even though you cannot clearly make out the pointed spot due to the distance, you will be surprised to find that your mind has all of a sudden acquired extra creativity. In a flash of a second, you have conjured up the image of the ape-god performing that wondrous feat. That is not all. The Bhimeswor temple is not a new name to the god-fearing throughout the nation. People pour in every week from the capital and from various other districts to offer prayers to the God. During their visit, they don't forget to ask one famous question, "Is the God sweating?" For they all have heard that if Bhimeswor sweats, that means something big is to happen. And that may be good or bad. Legend has it that the despairing Lord Shiva traveled though this area, carrying the corpse of His beloved Sati Devi. The corpse of the goddess had decayed so badly that a piece of her flesh detached and fell down the gorges immediately north of Dolakha. Thus sprang up the temple of Tripura Sundari. Talk to the priest and he will confide that a certain golden icon was stolen from this beautiful temple years ago. Hence, the misfortune that has befallen the country ever since. Though decrepit with lack of maintenance, the Manjushree Park. will spring up to life as soon as you step in. It will start whispering love-poetry through the branches of its old and wise trees. If you have an inclination to pen down verses, you might even end up writing some poems. But be careful, the ground is slippery. The dry grass will try its best to upset your balance. But then, it is a harmless mischief. Even if you slip and fall down six times or even a dozen times as I did, don't curse the area. For there are forest-gods hovering around, and you might end-up infuriating them.
Quite naturally, as Dolakha has been at peace since a long time. And the logic of conflict is something that they cannot understand, unless as some form of madness, spiritual illness, or moral pestilence.
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