@06drender tubless, for me, means no pinch flats. I like to run a little lower pressure for better traction, plus it improves the ride quality on descents, but increases likelihood of pinch flats if you're running tubes.
...very good tutorial. I just tried converting a wtb trail 26". I had never thought of using the soft tape tp fill in the rim valley. My LBS sold me some Velocity tape which was too wide and I tried overlapping laterally as I went 'round twice. I have just come in from a latex shower (spraying out of stem hole, spoke nipples and the join in the rim!). Thanks for the advice...I have cleaned up and will try again tomorrow...
Nicely done. You appear to follow instructions to the letter, use logic and back up all claims. As a professional bike mechanic my self I can tell you are a pro because you didnt ignore any details. I am going to do a tubeless conversion on my laser disc trails exactly like this but cheap skate that I am I will be trying 25mm wide gorilla tape instead of the caffe tape. I will let you all know how it goes. Especially thankful for the use a tube to stick down the tape bit.
I too found that high density foam tape works better than what is reco'd on his site; though I also chose to go a little larger as I noticed a lot of compression when I redid this wheel -- md 02279 is .25"x.5"x17ft -- about same price, & negligible weight diff
have also begun using an old toothbrush to agitate the heck out of the soapy water solution, then lift "dry foam" to lube the bead of the tire, rather than risk contaminating the sealant with a bunch of soapy water
only real issue I've had was when I was lazy in checking pressures after coming back down near sea level after having been up around 10k feet -- riding over uneven terrain, I started hearing tiny hisses as bead broke -- wound up with a Stan's strip that is creased and uneven
your method, of topping it off with the red tape instead of the heavy rubber Stan's strip just might be the ticket -- have to give it a try
thanks for posting this... I'd not even thought of doing the exact combo that you did
my 1st attempt was lame... caffelatex kit only -- tried to cram that wide tape in that deep & narrow channel... needless to say :(
got a little smarter & reviewed the Stan's site -- picked up the tip re: the foam tape, & decided to use Stan's tape, foam tape, Stan's strip + caffelatex
@06drender tubless, for me, means no pinch flats. I like to run a little lower pressure for better traction, plus it improves the ride quality on descents, but increases likelihood of pinch flats if you're running tubes.
panicrev555 8 months ago
why do people ride tubeless? im being actually serious here to, is there a difference obviously one has a tube and other doesnt. but apart from that?
06DRender 9 months ago
...oh and I see you have a carbon drive there...I'd have loved to have seen your complete bike...!
Unclefeet 1 year ago
...very good tutorial. I just tried converting a wtb trail 26". I had never thought of using the soft tape tp fill in the rim valley. My LBS sold me some Velocity tape which was too wide and I tried overlapping laterally as I went 'round twice. I have just come in from a latex shower (spraying out of stem hole, spoke nipples and the join in the rim!). Thanks for the advice...I have cleaned up and will try again tomorrow...
Unclefeet 1 year ago
this has to be the most thorough tutorial on youtube, great vid.
WhiteGravey 1 year ago
Nicely done. You appear to follow instructions to the letter, use logic and back up all claims. As a professional bike mechanic my self I can tell you are a pro because you didnt ignore any details. I am going to do a tubeless conversion on my laser disc trails exactly like this but cheap skate that I am I will be trying 25mm wide gorilla tape instead of the caffe tape. I will let you all know how it goes. Especially thankful for the use a tube to stick down the tape bit.
jaymholt 1 year ago
@AdriaNnLA
I too found that high density foam tape works better than what is reco'd on his site; though I also chose to go a little larger as I noticed a lot of compression when I redid this wheel -- md 02279 is .25"x.5"x17ft -- about same price, & negligible weight diff
have also begun using an old toothbrush to agitate the heck out of the soapy water solution, then lift "dry foam" to lube the bead of the tire, rather than risk contaminating the sealant with a bunch of soapy water
AdriaNnLA 1 year ago
only real issue I've had was when I was lazy in checking pressures after coming back down near sea level after having been up around 10k feet -- riding over uneven terrain, I started hearing tiny hisses as bead broke -- wound up with a Stan's strip that is creased and uneven
your method, of topping it off with the red tape instead of the heavy rubber Stan's strip just might be the ticket -- have to give it a try
AdriaNnLA 1 year ago
thanks for posting this... I'd not even thought of doing the exact combo that you did
my 1st attempt was lame... caffelatex kit only -- tried to cram that wide tape in that deep & narrow channel... needless to say :(
got a little smarter & reviewed the Stan's site -- picked up the tip re: the foam tape, & decided to use Stan's tape, foam tape, Stan's strip + caffelatex
has worked really well
AdriaNnLA 1 year ago