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Rope Solo Lead Climbing Tutorial Part 4 - The Climb

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Uploaded by on Feb 22, 2011

Here is a demonstration climb using the Wren Soloist device. I climb a 5.7 in Kakogawa Japan, nice and easy. I make a few mistakes, as is VERY easy to do when solo leading, and walk you through exactly how I do everything, correct the mistakes, and complete the climb and descent.

Check out my blog on rope free solo climbing for detailed info and my future plans:
http://ropefreesolo.blog.com

Here is the entire video series on rope solo lead climbing

Part 1 -- Intro and Gear List
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhAww0CI-Gw

Part 2 -- Anchoring
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyAMQuqhj6I

Part 3 -- Racking Up and Device Usage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYuksC6RK2Y

Part 4 -- Demonstration Climb
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjZYe3O2QQ

Part 5 -- Tips and Outro
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHEzO0-BunM

Extra footage -- free solo and rope solo rock climbing training day
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9z5ygoxcEXA

For further updates and information (advanced ideas/techniques), watch my update video series on rope solo lead climbing.
UPDATE SERIES #1 - Rope Solo Lead Climbing - Rope Systems and Anchoring
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNTojGc5EFI

UPDATE SERIES #2 - Rope Solo Lead Climbing - Choosing an Anchor Location
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt0gG5Yxotk

UPDATE SERIES #3 - Rope Solo Lead Climbing - How To Tie the Alpine Butterfly Knot - Tutorial
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAv2yOJQLVQ

UPDATE SERIES #4 - Rope Solo Lead Climbing - Soloist Belay Device Jamming with the Climbing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek-X5ylufHQ

UPDATE SERIES #5 - Rope Solo Lead Climbing - My Rigging -- Justifications
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgrZVWAcuEQ

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Uploader Comments (AronSensei)

  • why you dont use helmet, if you fall and hit the head you could die ...

  • @themaxdog if you fall and hit your head, you probably fell upside down- in which case the device doesn't work and you will die anyway. Bottom line- never fall upside down and you will be OK.

  • And then another question: In your experience, do you recommend starting doing this with a sort of backup rope in case things get tangled up or you realize you've messed something up...? Have you any experience of how to set up something like that?

    Thaaanks!

  • @theimaginaryempire - You should do whatever makes you feel comfortable. I never tried a backup rope, but I felt comfortable trying a 5.7, and I had a very good theoretical knowledge before I started. Your other problem is going to be setting up the backup line. Who will belay you? You could fix a rope and then use a jumar or sometihng for self belay. That would get messy-ropes everywhere. Also, how do you fix the rope without lead climbing first? Maybe you can hike up there first...

  • Hey thanks for that great demonstration! Some questions: 1.) Is the other end of the rope just in a ropebag at the bottom of the climb in order to feet out as you climb? No issues with the rope tangling up and you being stuck? That could get pretty annoing when you're hanging up there... 2.) How would you do it when you've done 1 pitch on a multipitch wall? Would You create an anchor, tie the rope to the anchor, rappel down, clean and then jumar up? Thanks!

  • @theimaginaryempire 1. The other end of the rope is in a pile flakd out so it feeds nicely. Flaked just like for sport climbing. Never had a problem with the rope getting tangled. 2.-yes thats exactly how you do it for multipitch

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All Comments (13)

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  • @AronSensei lol fantastic point!

    

  • Nice video series! I like to tie loop knots in the free end as a backup to the Soloist, which is well documented in the Soloist manual. I also like to rappel with the Soloist, especially on multi-pitch routes. The Soloist is a great device!

  • Great series man

  • right on bro....thanks for the series

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