Build your own Digital Kiln Controller

I finally had enough energy to put this all together, I plan on reshooting it as a video when the weather stabilizes but for now the fibro has held me captive. Sorry for the lack of audio too, I had to take advantage of the short window of energy I had and wanted to get this up so those that have shown interest can at least get the idea. One thing I just noticed I failed to put into the video is the fact that the green (ground) wire from your input should be joined with that of the output, and the 3 white wires (input, output, and the one to the controller) should also be connected together. Anyways, enjoy and as soon as i either get out of the perpetual fibro flare/fog or get normalized enough in weather to do so I will shoot a proper how-to for this.

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[jackpotmonkey]

@leglier59 the controller takes 110v in, it does convert the current down to 12v for the relay control output iirc, besides that its all 110 no adapters needed

[yedrow]

The PDI I found that most closely matched the on in the video comes with a 820º F thermocouple (type K). Do you have any recommendations for a TC lead that will fit the device and can handle temperatures up to at least 2300º F?

[jackpotmonkey]

@yedrow Unfortunately I don't have much experience with TC's outside of the one that came with my controller, it was rated up to 2200F, though I am sure you can find a type K on Ebay that will work, another possibility is to purchase a replacement kiln TC and modify its connector to work with your PID.

[pottersparks]

very nice video, great instruction. You have inspire me to build one

Couple questions / comments 1) instead of using the generic controller from ebay could you use the bartlett controller? there is one designed for kilns with built in cone programs 2) for the 220 - you have two power wires - do you need two relays? if so are they parallel or series?

Thanks for any help.. perhaps I will video my construction ?

[jackpotmonkey]

@pottersparks You can use whatever controller as long as it suits your situation, I used this one in particular just because it was included in the instructions I found. As far as having 2 relays I know that bigger kilns have several relays one for each heating element but I am not sure on their wiring, you can check out the wiring diagram on bartlets site or paragons site to see how they set it up maybe? This project was born out of a tutorial I found on wetcanvas i believe.

[fattirebiker]

is there a sensor that connects to the thermocoupler

[jackpotmonkey]

@fattirebiker the thermocouple is the sensor, it acts as a thermometer for the digital controller

[leglier59]

I have an old Paragon Kiln and I've purchased a kit with these parts included, plus a heat sink. My husband is a electronics tech and is curious about the power going into the controller... is there no need for an adaptor at all or does the 110 go directly to the controller? I think I have this question right! THANK YOU for any and all help!

[quihi1975]

I bought a used 220 volt Sitter Kiln, will your application work on a 220? I want to use it to heat treat flint and I have now as is to control it other than the low,med,high dail settings

[meggowatt]

Nice video, but I see a flaw in the design. I have put together several of these and have determined that the SSRs are VERY sensitive to heat in this Application, and that though they may compact in size, you should add a large heatsink, which adds to size and cost. I have found that using a small SSR to drive a mercury relay works best. Some PIDs can drive them directly. You will see that most commercial kilns and ovens use this method. SSRs are expensive vs robust mercury relays.

[bighals]

does it matter if the ssr is 40 a or does it have to be 60 a, and will any of this electricity info be different if you live in australia where our sockets run 240v