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How to make a double sided circuit board using the toner transfer method - Part 1 of 2

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Uploaded by on Jul 1, 2009

I use the Pulsar PCB "Fab-In-A-Box" Kit http://www.pcbfx.com/ to make my own double sided PCB. I made this video for my lab http://www.icehockeyscience.mcgill.ca which is why it is so long but I don't think its a bad idea to share it with you in full length as many videos just jump through the process very quickly. I am a completely new at this as this is my second board I've ever made. I'm not a circuit guy but needed a board for my research project in biomechanics so I went out and learned. Please feel free to comment with improvements or suggestions on my methods but provide some reasoning if you do.

Thanks and good luck with your boards!

Software: PCB Artist http://www.4pcb.com/
Tracks: 0.015"
Spacing: 0.015"
Drill Size: 0.032"
Pad size: 0.065" (Makes life easier for registration)

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Education

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Uploader Comments (0ak1e)

  • sorry for the ignorance but im learning here what is the function of a having a double layered pcb?

  • @Rulox999 When you start using multiple components on your PCB it can become impossible to route all the traces on a single layer. The second (or third or fourth...) layer allows you space to run more direct connections or dedicate a layer to power or ground signals making connections much easier.

  • You indicate to mirror print the bottom layer, is this based on the software you are using? I use Eagle and it seams mirror printing the top layer does it for me!

    Great video by the way!

    Michel

  • @Micheljut Its based on what layer your components are on. I placed all the components on the bottom layer (out of pure lack of experience) so I had to mirror that one in my design. I redesigned this with the components on the top and its much easier to understand now.

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  • @Micheljut I alway mirror the component layer and not the solder side. Your right on.

  • @cumesoftware I agree, steel wool was not the best material, but it worked at the time. Others have suggested 3M scotch pads, or similar synthetics.

  • @zulfiqaradil 170°C seems best for most toners. Some printers like the newer Brothers require around 187°C or so. Most laminators run at around 115°C by default.

    You can however modify them to run hotter, as I did with mine. I followed the instructions from Ultrakeet. (Search Google to find it)

  • @JoeGancher That means the toner did not stick to the copper properly. Either the board was dirty, your laminator\iron wasn't hot enough, there wasn't enough pressure or you were using the wrong paper.

    After transferring with my laminator at 170°C I can rub the paper off vigorously with my fingers just fine and the toner won't come off. It will only come off if I scratch at it with something sharp.

  • in your procedure you told that you on your laminator on before half an hour for all process what is the exact temprature of your laminator for perfect result

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