How to replace a bearing wall with a seventeen foot engineered header! Part 2
Uploader Comments (BaBBsiMo)
All Comments (11)
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@ncmcphaul I saw an article in Finehomebuilding where a guy did this and he used a chainsaw to cut the joists. Said he used to use a recip saw but found the chainsaw kept a straight cut better, much less likely to wander.
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What did you use to cut the floor joists? Was it hard cutting thought the joists without cutting through the ceiling?
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Why not push the beam directly against the joists instead of notching out the beams?
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Nice job, thanks for video
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what size of the lag screw you use for atach the post to the header and the poast to the floor?
what simpson model you use and the size of the screw?
Thanks.
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what size of the lag screw you use for atach the post to the header and the poast to the floor?
Thanks.
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Next time use duct tape. Much quicker.
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i wanna move the wall betwen the kitche and livingroom. and its a supporting wall......do i have to add 2 jacks to support the header or there is another way of doing it without the jacks or columns?. and i dont have a concreet floor to pin the jacks if so.....where do i pin them.........?On the supporting wall that comes from the basement?...please help Thank you :)
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Thanks for spending the time to document this.
what about the load on the concrete floor? won't you need a deeper concrete footer to be in place to handle the load of the home? won't the concrete eventually crack if you don't do this?
Derelictos 1 year ago
@Derelictos . Yes. There is a footer under each pole. 12" deep, 30" X 30"
BaBBsiMo 1 year ago