How to Place and Use Gear Effectively

Submitted as assessment for a Sport Science (Outdoor Activities) degree at Bangor University. Qaulifications Module JXH3030.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• Qaulification
• podcast
• placing
• gear

[guitarrules762]

It's better not to use an overhand with slings as an overhand not halves the strength of the sling. It is also importand to remember that slings have no dynamic ability so shock loading can actually snap them so it's even more important.

[tomparsons25]

not a bad vid dan, but a few issues with it

1) as bearded ben has stated, use a girth hitch instead of an overhand knot,

2)Also cams are fine for anchor points as long as they are placed correctly, in the right direction, have a flexible stem, and have a screwgate binner.

3) Would have been good to talk about tricams aswell.

but over all, not bad

[SamThom88]

@tomparsons25 Sorry to be a pain but would like to say that even a girth hitch affects the breaking strain of Dyneema, almost as much as an overhand, but as you've doubled it around the tree anyway, it should still have the same failure point as single Dyneema with no knots (in theory, as it happens, a knot helps Dyneema take a dynamic load if you slip whilst above or level with the anchor). Hope this is helpful, and not just arsey!

[crjanow]

@stillbashingmetal the second person climbing removes the nuts usually with a nut tool. its not a good idea to use stuck nuts from another climber because they may have damaged the cable trying to retrieve the nut. most nuts are made from aluminum, micro nuts are often brass.

[prankmelater]

what micro wive did u film his from

[stillbashingmetal]

Do you leave the steel nuts in the cracks, or do you retrieve them after you have finished climbing? How do you get them out again? Do you use nuts that other climbers have left behind , and if so, how do you know they are safe? Are they stainless steel or alloy? I'm not a climber (you guessed?) but still interested. Thanks :-)

[bigturtlehand]

Not a bad vid, but I don't understand why you wouldn't want to use a cam as an anchor. As long as you place it correctly, cams are bomber anchors and if bolts aren't available, I feel safest on a cam anchor.

[tdawgmoneymoney7]

A girth hitch would be better than an over hand in some situations like a tree, but an overhand knot can hold tension around a knob or horn making the pro more secure. Being realistic, the sling is rated at 22kn or 5000 lbs of static pull. even cut in half, you will most likely never come close to a breaking force in any kind of leader fall.

Cams can definitely be used in anchors, just make sure their bomber just like every placement for and anchor. Realistically you use what you can get.

[wb5mgr]

Generally if you will put a sling around the tree or rock and join it with a forged bolt thru type shackle, you can clip to the shackle with your carabiner with no loss of strength from knots or hitches.

[macaroon331]

@guitarrules762 I believe girth hitching also reduces the strength of the sling. Manufacturers specifications generally suggest that both tying a knot and girth hitching halve the strength.

[808sideswiper]

I'm going to use this vid too improve my chances of getting my MIA! If this guy can do it.........cheers dan :D