Crevasse Rescue

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Uploaded by on Feb 1, 2008

A practical demonstration of crevasse rescue using an unassisted hoist. Taken from the Mountaineering Council of Scotland's Alpine Essentials DVD.

Full DVD available here: http://www.mcofs.org.uk/dvds-publications.asp

Join the MCofS here: http://www.mcofs.org.uk/join-us.asp

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  • 0:20 an oscar, please!

  • I have used 3 to 1 systems before in SAR, I would consider using two prusik knots at the anchor. Why you say? To ensure more safety when pulling someone up and to provide a fail safe. What he is doing everything RIGHT in the video but I use two pruisk knot. Also dealing with 3 to 1 systems, know how much load you are putting on the system/ropes. Do not pull your buddy up to fast or put to much stress on the 3to1 system... as it may blow. Understand the Pro and Cons of your equipment.

  • For those who still have not read the notes, those are extracts from comercial dvds that are on sale. Thats why everything is not unveiled ;)

  • Heeeelp =(

  • Great vid - THANKS A LOT. just like someone else asked already - it would be good to see as well, step by step, how to to stop the fall, build an anchor still with the other person hanging on rope, and transfer the load on the anchor..

    THX again

  • This guy sounds so wonderfully like Jim Broadbent. Awesome video.

  • cool

  • It looks as though there's only one anchor set in this example. I've found that it's always best to have a backup in case the one fails.

  • a carabiner would add more friction to the system and therefore makes it harder to pull the guy up, since more of your efforts are converted to heat and friction instead of actual movement. a pulley simply "makes life easier" as said in the video. in an emergency situation, a biner would do the job of course.

  • One of the best glacier rescue videos available on the web! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!

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