Ford Tempo Front Disk Brake Repair (Part 2)

Wasn't as bad as I thought...

Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

• Ford Tempo
• Mercury Topaz
• GL
• 1993
• Brake Repair
• disk brakes
• front
• front brakes
• splash guard
• DuraLast
• rotor
• Torx
• T-40
• 19mm Socket
• 4 inch C-Clamp

[ASS3464]

The "splash guard" you found on your car are called backing plates in the haynes manual. There propose is to keep your brakes clean and from getting scratched up and free from dirt, water, or stones kicked up by the wheels. You would need them most defiantly.

[ASS3464]

Thats the same car and year as mine all expect mine is red/gray Two tone. And it has a V6 and probably stock premium wheels and a optionail sunroof that somone bought before me. only 59K on it.

[richroyce09]

exact same car as mine. my were burning and smoking yesterday too! im doing the same thing today....

[MagicPatrick1]

@nightpwner Yea, and basically any car... The most important thing I could have showed in the video was the manual. Any attempt at do-it-yourself auto repair should always start with the correct manuals. I used the ford factory manual, but any haynes or chiltons will do aswell.

[nightpwner]

@MagicPatrick1 That sounds like something important that should have been in the video. A skinny kid could get hurt. I'm relying on you old man. Does this all apply to an '89 Tempo btw?

[MagicPatrick1]

@nightpwner You shouldn't need to bleed anything after just changing the pads. Just MAKE SURE the cap is off, or you won't be able to force the piston back in, or worse, cause injury. Not only to yourself, but the master cylinder! When it's all done top off with fluid, pump the brakes a few times, then check it (fluid level) again.

[MagicPatrick1]

@nightpwner The only way to force it back safely is with a c-clamp. The area of the piston isn't very large, and the boot goes right around the edge. Not only do you need a c-clamp, but the manual also recomends a wood or plastic shim for extra protection. If anything pierces that boot, it's a whole lot more work needing to replace the entire caliper and bleeding ect.

[MagicPatrick1]

@nightpwner The C clamp was to depress the caliper (after removing the fill cap). When pulling the caliper at first you can just use a screwdriver to depress the piston enough to slide off the assembly. But since the new pads are thicker, and it relaxes even further depending on how long it's taking, the piston will be almost all of the way out.

[nightpwner]

@MagicPatrick1 Could you show or tell me why and what did you use a C clamp for?

[MagicPatrick1]

@nightpwner To support the caliper so it didn't cause stress on the brake lines.