Jay Smith - crack footwork

October 2008 Splitter Camp, Indian Creek, Utah. Bill Segal climbs Chocolate Corner 5.9, Donnelly Canyon. This was the first day and first climb of the Camp. After this climb Jay critiques Bills footwork, recommending he keep his right foot in the crack for upward progress, and only use footholds out on the right face for resting. This first day we learned a lot about weight transfer, especially helpful for crack climbing. With Jay's coaching, buy the end of the third day Bill was cruising 10c crack routes (albeit on top rope since there is no client leading at Splitter Camp) and showing incredible progress. An intense three-day crack indoctrination, but getting crack mileage in really enables progress.

Category:

Education

Tags:

• Indian Creek
• Donnelly Canyon
• Chocolate Corner
• Utah
• climbing
• rockclimbing
• rock-climbing
• rock
• crack
• Jay Smith
• Splitter Camp
• Moab Desert Adventures
• hand jam
• jamming footwork

[wburgboy75]

I think I'm developing a crack habit.

[harpo10]

Every time I get on some run out nightmare in Tahoe then look at the guide it says, first ascent Jay Smith.

[jvballatore]

thanks for posting

[GioDimatteo]

Panic Bear

[sdmbaddict]

spoken like a true crack fiend!  As I was watching I was wondering why he didnt have both feet in the crack, everyones gotta learn tho!!