Release of a Black Diamond, ATC Guide auto-blocking belay device under full bodyweight.
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Uploaded by climbinglifeguides on Sep 21, 2009
Eli Helmuth demonstrates one of the common methods taught on AMGA courses for releasing an auto-blocking belay device such as the BD ATC Guide while loaded under full bodyweight. An AMGA Instructor for 12 years and owner of Climbing Life Guides; Eli Helmuth demonstrates one of the safer ways to control the descent of a climber while being belayed up on an auto-blocking belay device.
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Uploader Comments (climbinglifeguides)
All Comments (16)
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@panzergrenadier90 Because the munter hitch twist the crap out of your rope.
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why dont people just use munter????? you carry no extra weight, pay no extra money, save all the troubles of locking off and giving out slack. simplicity is key to travel light and moving fast. if you are not a mountain guide that has to bring up two seconds at same time, munter hitch is the best choice.
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Look folks keep it simple. and what if you need to rescue the number 1- how are you going to lower him or her?
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Agreed!
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What about putting the brake strand into a biner on a munter ?
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Love the redirect setup. When you first ran the release to your harness I was questioning the setup, but you immediately resolved that issue and demonstrated a great way to use the BD guide atc. Thanks!
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Connecting sling to harness was totally appropriate and safe as he addressed the risk of slipping or being struck by rock or lightning and maintaining the brake through the auto block on the brake strand back to his belay loop.
practice makes this set-up very efficient...nice video!
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It does seem like reversing the order of operation would be safer since the 'third hand' auto-block would already be in place when he attaches the 'release' sling to the ATCguide. That way if he slips (unlikely worst case scenario) then the autoblock can engage and he will have additional control.
rwalt85 1 year ago
@rwalt85 I agree that the autoblock should probably go on first to protect against any mishaps- good observation!
climbinglifeguides 10 months ago