TIG Welding Aluminum Basics 4: Introducing Filler Metal to the Puddle

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Uploaded by on Aug 2, 2010

Andy Weyenberg, motorsports marketing manager, Miller Electric Mfg. Co. ( http://www.millerwelds.com ), discusses aluminum TIG welding basics. The third step to working with aluminum: introducing filler metal to the puddle:

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  • I bought the Miller 165 last week and have tried relentlessly to weld aluminum or run a bead with NO success. I've tried setting the amperage at all levels using straight Argon and Argon 75/25 mix and the only thing it does is either completely melts the aluminum or leave black specks on it from the arc. AND yes it's set to AC. I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with the machine...

  • Thank you to the pro instructors and to Miller for sharing these instructional videos. Very generous of you folks, it is appreciated. Thanks.

  • just perfect.

  • MrTom609

    watch this

    tig aluminium welding technique

  • Great series. I wish they had more on how to set the settings. I tried using a miller syncwave with all the digital settings and I was lost.

  • Great videos 

  • with the newer inverter type of welders Ceriated or Lanthanated 1.5 or 2.0 work great I prefer the 2.0 Lanthanated. No balling of the end is needed, necessary or desired. You want a sharp point with just the end taken off to keep it from jumping off into the puddle. This allows for a smaller bead and also faster travel speed and use on thicker material because the arc is more focused.

  • @kimbothebimbo805 I know! That is what I was saying. He was asking about whether the tungsten should be sharp and I was telling him about what to expect when welding on AC. And I have welded aluminum with Red aka 2% Thoriated tungsten just fine. If you watch the video about Todd Bevis, thats what I do for a living, build NHRA Pro Stock cars, so its not like I dont know what I'm talking about. Man I hate having people jump my shit every time I comment on a video.

  • @unseenpunk1906

    the tungsten is suppose to ball up and stay that way for aluminum, but on stainless or mild you want it sharp

    the red tungsten is for steel's and green tungsten is for aluminum, and yes it does matter

  • Excellent video! Can't wait until I can afford a proper miller machine that can do AC!

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