looks like it's still twitching, not sure what's happening. I'm thinking it's the controller board. I'll probably end up replace it w/ a Leo Bodnar 10 or 12 bit controller and all new potiometers. Will be getting some Fanatec Clubsport Pedals in December though.
@irnhed13 replaced potentiometer and things are more predictable now, no more "jerkiness" I plan on upgrading the 8-bit TSW2 board w/ either the one availible from TSW that's 10-bit or getting the 12-bit board from Leo Bodnar to give me some added resolution thus giving a much smoother turn and greater degree of rotation. I'll be replacing the throttle, brake, and clutch potiometers as well so roughly a 100-150 investment in upgrades and maintenence.
Most likely a bad pot. I ususally get a dead spot in the left turn travel when they start going bad. Turn the wheel slow and look for the same jittering or spikes in the numbers on the calibration screen.
looks like it's still twitching, not sure what's happening. I'm thinking it's the controller board. I'll probably end up replace it w/ a Leo Bodnar 10 or 12 bit controller and all new potiometers. Will be getting some Fanatec Clubsport Pedals in December though.
cdubya42 1 year ago
@irnhed13 replaced potentiometer and things are more predictable now, no more "jerkiness" I plan on upgrading the 8-bit TSW2 board w/ either the one availible from TSW that's 10-bit or getting the 12-bit board from Leo Bodnar to give me some added resolution thus giving a much smoother turn and greater degree of rotation. I'll be replacing the throttle, brake, and clutch potiometers as well so roughly a 100-150 investment in upgrades and maintenence.
cdubya42 1 year ago
Most likely a bad pot. I ususally get a dead spot in the left turn travel when they start going bad. Turn the wheel slow and look for the same jittering or spikes in the numbers on the calibration screen.
irnhed13 1 year ago