Golf Club Re-Shafting (Part 2)

Loading...

Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon
Upgrade to the latest Flash Player for improved playback performance. Upgrade now or more info.
23,701
Loading...
Alert icon
Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon

Uploaded by on Feb 16, 2010

In this segment I complete the club re-shafting sequence by attaching the club head back to the shaft that we pulled in the earlier video.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

License:

Standard YouTube License

  • likes, 0 dislikes

Link to this comment:

Share to:
see all

All Comments (10)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Go Noles!

  • what kind of epoxy should i use

    

  • may aswell use semen

  • Don't you need to spine/true iron shafts?

  • On a more serious note...If you use the same shaft and just want to put a new head on, would you necessarily have to drill out the old epoxy in the shaft?

  • I like to smack my slick balls around while holding a long hard shaft with a big head that comes all together with some white milky stuff...mmmmm

  • @momo671

    You abrade to give surface tension. You should also degrease. Tiny surface "grit" means the epoxy has more surface to bite. Think gecko feet or velco.

  • Couple comments - I mean them to be constructive

    Mixing does matter- when one has air bubbles in the epoxy, it actually weakens the epoxy. In some circumstance, by alot.

    The beads, or any other filler, give the epoxy "body" filling the space between shaft and hosel "better". You can use anything - I've used stainless steel in gunwork.

    10min is a good middle ground. the faster the set time, the more brittle the epoxy.

    Great vide

  • what do you recommend to abrade a steel shaft?

  • it's good to see someone do clean work

Loading...

Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more