Pre-compressor water injection

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Uploaded by on Feb 23, 2010

Video taken 18" from the inlet of a Holset HX35 being injected with water at roughly 170 psi (250 psi pump) with a 7gph nozzle. It begins injecting at 51 seconds into the video.

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Autos & Vehicles

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Uploader Comments (99GSTracer)

  • How do you determine what size nozzle to use?

    and if you should have your pump turn full on, or progressively?

  • @unijabnx2000

    The best way it by testing and datalogging information. Everybody's setup is different, so you'll need to determine what works best for you. I've never been a fan of progressive setups. I like my pump to either be ON or OFF. And I prefer a boost-based or load-based trigger.

  • how much do u see you intake temps drop?

  • @maldo72

    Without injection, compressor outlet temps accelerated at 29 degrees F per second. With injection, we reduced that to 11 degrees F per second. A substantial difference. We also picked up an extra 1.2 PSI boost from the added compressor efficiency.

  • is your BOV not responsive enough to keep it from shooting back thru the anti-surge ports?

  • @unijabnx2000

    That surge was a quirk of the dyno. Definitely not something you would see with normal driving.

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All Comments (42)

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  • Awesome! You never cease to amaze me with the shit you pull off. Keep it up!

  • @yorchais

    lol, no, it won't cause the aluminum compressor wheel or cover to rust. The atomized water vapor flashes off almost instantly. Zero fluid comes out of the compressor outlet.

  • @dadoVRC

    We tested methanol and water, and water outperforms for pre-compressor injection. Most users than incur compressor wheel damage have the nozzle in a poor location. Usually too far upstream and not directed directly toward the compressor. Idealy, the nozzle should be 4" from the compressor and spraying directly at the center. This way there's little possibility of damage occuring.

    There's one proper way and a dozen improper ways to attempt this.

  • This was great guys thank you!

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