OK, Finally tuned up the Taurus. As I stated in my earlier video, the car has run on the original wires, plugs, fuel filter, trans filter, etc up to 182,000+ miles!
It started hesitating last week when if got a little warmer outside. Well, it was time for a complete tune up. The trans had also been shifting funny, kind of hunting around for gears, in and out of overdrive and stuff like that.
I started out by checking out what transmission it had and also my plan of attack for getting the rear three spark plugs out. There is just no room even for my hand not to mention a wrench or socket!
I gathered up my parts Friday for $120. This was for 6 Premium Autolite Platinum Plugs, Premium 8mm Wire Set, Tube of Sealing Grease, Transmission Filter and Gasket, 7 Quarts of Transmission Fluid, and a Fuel Filter.
I started the job Friday after work. I pulling the plenum off after disconnecting the EGR valve, the air intake boot, and some wires and hoses. 6 small bolts and the intake lifted right off. Once out of the way, I started changing the plugs along the front of the engine and then the rear plugs. I put the old wires back on the plugs to change them later so as not to mix them up. I then changed the wires and transferred the heat collars from the old wires to the new wires. I finished that job in about two hours. That's all I did Friday.
Saturday morning I started cleaning the intake runners and plenum. That was a BIG job and took about 4 hours. I used a shop vac, some STP spray cleaner, an air hose, a bunch of rags,and my die grinder with a polishing stone. The gunk was about 1/16" think and very stubborn to remove. I had to scrap and grind and spray and polish. I got is as clean as I thought it needed. I also used the die grinder on the intake plenum and polished off the rough casting marks as far as I could reach up into the plenum. It smoothed out pretty good and should help smooth out air flow into the intake with less drag. That means more volume and more power and better gas mileage! Once cleaned, I installed the new Felpro intake gaskets and put the plenum back on. Re-assembly was no big deal.
I then moved on to the transmission fluid and filter. I started by loosening the rear pan bolts and worked my way up each side slowly as the fluid drained out the back of the pan. I dropped the pan, pulled the filter and inspected what I could see. Overall, the transmission and pan weren't too bad. I expected worse after so many miles! The filter was definitely heavy with sediment and the round magnet in the pan had filings on it as expected. Hence the reason for the magnet in the first place. I cleaned up the mating surfaces, installed the new filter which basically just pushes into the opening, no tools or screws required (make sure you remove the old filter gasket first!), and reused the factory pan gasket. I snugged it down and re-filled the trans. It took all 7 quarts to fill it. I started and ran it long enough to get it down off the ramps so I could check the fluid on a level surface.
The fuel filter was the easiest job to do. Just pull the white two prong clips from the slots on the hose fittings on either side of the filter and then the lines will pull right off the filter. Be careful, there may still be pressure on the line so wear glasses and have a catch pan ready for the residual gas. I loosened the strap, pulled the old filter, put the new filter in and reinstalled the lines and clips, they push right in with your fingers.
That's it. That was the whole job. It took me about 6 hours all together. It would have took less time if I didnt clean the intake so well but as long as you have it apart that far, why wouldnt you?
I test drove the car Sunday morning and it was running good but was missing on occasion. I realized that there was probably some grease left in the one spark plug boot. This is sealing lube for the coil pack boot tips to keep moisture out but it is non-conductive. I had put it in the first plug wire boot and then realized I might have a problem so I wiped it out best I could. Well, there was still some in there so I cleaned it out again and the it fixed the problem.
The car shifts a little better, runs alot smoother, and has more power. The new plugs alone made a big difference!
So, what I am trying to show you here is that you CAN do these jobs with simple hand tools and a little patience. I am going to guess that if I took the car to a garage to have everything done to it that I did, it would have cost me $800 or more, easy!! So, dont be afraid to tackle these small projects. It will help to understand your vehicle more and its actually enjoyable and you know its done right when you are finished.
Thanks for watching and please ask me any questions that I might have left out and leave a comment and rate.
did u ever get rid of the hesitation?
privateblue 3 weeks ago
@privateblue its was the VSS. Vehicle Speed Sensor. Watch that video of replacing it on my channel.
AllThingzVideo 3 weeks ago
I just got a '99 about a week ago and the transmission is acting like you explained in the beginning of your description. Did it start shifting smoother after these repairs?
PrestoneFuegoKL 4 weeks ago
@PrestoneFuegoKL No, it was the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). Watch that video in my collection to see where that is and how to change it. Its inexpensive and works like magic to fix the shift / studder start problem. Let me know how it goes. Thanks
AllThingzVideo 4 weeks ago
Can you tell me the firing order for the Taurus 1999?
MrJabroni65 2 months ago
@MrJabroni65 Which engine? All are 1-4-2-5-3-6. The 3.0L OHV engine, the coil pack is perpendicular to the firewall and number one ir at the top right corner, 2 below it, then 3. 5 is on the top left, then 6 below it, then 4. On the 3.0L OHC Duratec, the coil pack is parallel with the firewall. Bottom right is 1, then 2 to the left, then 3. Top right, toward the firewall is 5, then 6 to the left, then 4.
AllThingzVideo 1 month ago