Ryan Martin's Fretboard Radius Jig. Part 2.
Uploader Comments (TheRealRyanMartin)
All Comments (13)
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hi your radius machine is great.... Is possible to make it???
Is posssible a changed the radius on the hold neck 7,25 on 9.75???
You can realize all the radius type?
regards
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@LFWOL I really like the spring idea! Next time I set this jig up I'll remember your suggestion for a spring. That would work perfectly! I know, I'm really bad about the face shield. When possible, I'll cut in the direction that sends the shavings away from me just so I don't 'need' the shield. Cavities and Edges send chips in every direction so I usually wear the sheild for those ops. Noise I can't avoid so you'll always see me with hearing protection. Ever heard of armoured gloves?
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Thanks Ryan. I'm jumping right in on this. These jigs are going to make processes deliciously simple! You rock, man (and I suppose you also roll).
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Hey Ryan, if I wanted a 12" radius, would I make the radius on the jig an even 12". Stupid question, I know, but I'm in a debate with someone about it.
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Dude, you know that set of sunglasses you have on in the picture next to your name? Put 'em when you're doing that!
Nice jig BTW.
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This is really cool.
Thanks man, I do roll!
TheRealRyanMartin 1 year ago
I remember contemplating this when designing the jig. It's nice to know that you guys are building your own! Proper results are achieved by subtracting the thickness of the sled (with neck) from the desired radius. On my 16" jig the radius was cut at @13.875". It's helpful to visualize a pivot point under the jig. I was also skeptical about my math but the first couple passes with my 16" radius block cleaned up all the router marks. Don't forget to straighten the neck before cutting!
TheRealRyanMartin 1 year ago
@TheRealRyanMartin Staighten the neck? What does that mean? I am building an acoustic now, and I assume you are doing an electric, so are they the same in this way?
BlueMacGyver 1 year ago
@BlueMacGyver Any time you cut the radius into a fretboard you want to make sure the truss rod is adjusted so that the neck is as straight as possible. Sometimes when I am cleaning up the last fine sanding scratches with fine paper on the radius block I will tighten the rod to give the neck a little upbow. This helps to avoid digging into the corners. Good luck!
TheRealRyanMartin 1 year ago
Ah, nice observation! I did plan on using the handle on the front and designed the jig to be heavy on the rear to keep pressure downward. After a dozen or so necks I noticed it much easier to ensure 4-point contact with pressure applied directly on the ends. If I were to rebuild this jig I would design it heavy front to back and put handles on the ends. Good one, though!
TheRealRyanMartin 2 years ago