Climbing Tools- Keeping the anchor high

This little trick is pretty handy. Learned this from Greg Golovach. Just take a bight and place it through one biner. Tie off as usual. I find things easier to manage if the tie in point is around shoulder height. It is much more cmfortable then redirecting a beley off your harness. A good example of that is this clip on the Grand Sentinal. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45gMnYviVfk

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• high
• anchor
• climbing

[nomensteven]

I saw your video on vector forces and I was wondering if doing this (shortening the length of anchor) would increase the load on your anchor points because you are creating a more obtuse angle (high school geometry finally paid off). Not really a safety question just more of a hypothetical/interest question.

[mikebarter387]

@nomensteven Good observation. Yes it would , guess you have evaluate the strenght of your gear and make a judgement call. Your right thou it would create a greater angle.

[mikebarter387]

thats what I am using

[Caminsk]

would a 7mm rope do the job well?

[simongeering]

don't know what you mean by "quantum topology" but the way i see it if you clip a aoding great lump of metal through that knot and by logical extention through the bight that is part of the know it isn't goin gany where! Not only that the angle at your anchors is nice and small so the load is shared between them.

[bretincoop]

Ahhh! This one is awesome. Great idea. Thanks.

[mikebarter387]

Damm and I thought it was alchol poisning

[mikebarter387]

Thanks that is it pretty much. these are single take with no re-shoot ever

[babbchuck]

dorke991: he says overhand, but he actually ties a figure 8 in the video - either one is appropriate in this application. Since his point here is to use up excess rope, the figure 8 probably gets his knot up 6 inches higher than the overhand would.

[foobargorch]

especially when something is clipped into that bight. they call it quantum topology, it's the biggest threat to climbers.