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早い波、ダンパー

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Uploaded by on Jan 19, 2011

昨晩は海から1キロ以上離れた家ですが海鳴りのような轟音が聞こえた。午前10時。満ちどまりでこれから満潮へ。アウトで割れた波は厚く一気に割れてダンパー気味。この波­に乗ると海岸まで一気に流されそうだ。スープの波は厚みと高さがありカヤックで越えるのはきつそうだ。越えられないことはないが、波を越えるときに何回かは飛ばされそうだ­。

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