Steve House: Patagonia Clothing System for Nanga Parbat

Patagonia Alpine Ambassador Steve House goes through the clothing he wore on his and Vince Anderson's alpine-style first ascent of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat in September, 2005. They were awarded the 2005 Piolet d'Or Award, recognizing the significance of this innovative route climbed in a clean and committed style.

Patagonia ambassador Steve House first laid eyes on the Rupal Face as a 19-year-old member of a Slovenian mountaineering expedition to the Schell Route, then considered the standard route to Nanga Parbat's summit. Since then he's been working to return and attempt the line up the central pillar of the Rupal Face. In 2004, Steve and partner, Bruce Miller, made that attempt, reaching 25,000 feet before Steve's altitude sickness forced them back.

Colorado native Vince Anderson climbed his first mountain at age five and has only looked skyward since. Equally at home on rock, ice or mixed routes, he's led expeditions in North and South America, Europe and Asia, and has summited 8,000-meter peaks in the Tibetan and Pakistani Himalaya. He is an IFMGA member and is the owner and lead guide of Skyward Mountaineering.

Category:

Sports

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• Steve
• House:
• Patagonia
• Clothing
• System
• for
• Nanga
• Parbat
• Ascent
• Alpine
• Climb
• Vince
• Anderson's
• alpine-style
• first
• ascent

[burleighmt]

This was a great overview not only of the patagonia clothing system, but also of layering in general - thanks!

[jayy42]

Great overview

[moneyman10k]

@Thrusthamster how is the parka treating you dog

[monoeed]

@guitardode yeah, probably that's why he recieved the piolet d'or for climbing the route alpine style. google is your friend.

[steveo72990]

He reiterates the fact that it's "poofy" and light, therefore it easily shrinks down to a volume he can carry in his pack.

[Thrusthamster]

Awesome, I bought the DAS Parka because I thought it would be a good choice, this makes me even more confident in it (haven't tried it yet).

[firrry]

There is no such thing as "IFMGA certification", just IFMGA membership. Steve was certified by the AMGA. AMGA grants membership in the IFMGA to fully certified AMGA members. Get it right!!

[armstrongw5]

look can somebody else confirm that this stuff is good over 8000? is steve house cold blooded? doesnt seem possible.

[Paulieeeeeeeee]

Actually they climbed it in perfect alpine style (two men, one rope, two bags on their bags NO porters, oxygen, fixed rope etc.), 6 days up, 2 days down. BTW Rupal Face of Nanga parbat is 4100 m (13500 ft) high...

[Paulieeeeeeeee]

Actually they climbed it in perfect alpine style (two men, one rope, two bags on their bags NO porters, oxygen, fixed rope etc.), 6 days up, 2 days down. BTW Rupal Face of Nanga parbat is 4100 m (13500 ft) high...